tubers

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Sunchoke (round) and Yacon (enlongated)

Sunchoke (Helianthus tuberosus) is a tuber native to the United States and first cultivated by Native Americans. Also known as Jerusalem Artichokes, they are a species of sunflower that are easily grown in a sunny spot but can become invasive if left unchecked. To keep the tubers vigorous and viable, they should be dug up in late autumn to harvest, saving some to replant in fertile soil. Their earthy flavor and texture is reminiscent of potatoes and are best lightly steamed or roasted.
Yacon (Smallanthus sonchifolious) is in the same family of plants as sunchokes and sunflowers. Indigenous to the Peruvian Andes where they grow as perennials, the tubers cannot survive harsh New England winters and must be dug up and stored in a protected area, to be replanted in the spring. Their flavor is mildly sweet and fruity with earthy tones. Their texture is crisp; a cross between jicama and water chestnuts and are delicious when eaten raw.

white truffle x4

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All told, my little 14 gram tartufo bianco d'Alba gave a lot of bang for the buck. It provided me a day's worth of delicious meals. A truffle-scented omelet for breakfast. For lunch, a bowl of fresh tagliatelle with butter, taleggio, and a scandalous shower of shaved truffle. And this heady quartet for dinner. 
All truffle. All day. 
Life is good.
Truffle


Risotto


Slider


Soup 

chicken skate corn coconut

Imagine a morsel of tender, sweet, flaky fish. Now imagine it encrusted with a crackly-crisp crust of chicken skin.

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chicken-fried skate
silver queen corn
coconut
cocoa nib
sea bean
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That was the image that I kept fixed in my mind (and palate) and the inspiration for the chicken skin croquant. 
In the past, I've wrapped and glued raw chicken skin to another protein. The problem with that method is controlling the cooking time and temperature required to produce a crisp skin and a properly cooked filling. Sometimes these are incompatible. 
Then there is the issue of wrapping, which leaves areas of overlapping skin that result in pockets of flabby fat.
The control, I decided, would be to pre-cook the skin. But then how to apply it? Grinding was a logical step, but I wasn't looking for a crumb coating. I was seeking a crispy crust–one that did not require deep frying or prolonged heating. 
I needed something that would cook quickly, fuse the ground skin, and contribute to the texture and flavor. Sugar fit the bill and I liked the ideal of a bruleed coating, but the amount needed would render it too sweet. Mildly sweet isomalt, which behaves like sugar and quickly melts to the hard-crack stage turned out to be the solution. The addition of Tapioca Maltodextrin further improved the texture and helped with the bonding.
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The last silver queen corn of the season, when put through a juicer and heated, contains natural starch that quickly transforms into a velvety sauce. All that is needed is a burst of lime juice and pinch of salt to balance the sweetness. 
Coconut and corn is a marriage made in heaven. 
Cocoa nibs add complexity and a hint of bitterness.
Salty sea beans + chicken of the sea = delicious. 

vegetable tartine

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tiles of roasted zucchini, summer squash and sweet bell peppers, mortar of eggplant skin puree

Why do we peel eggplants and discard the skin? 
Some say that the skin is bitter and tough. This can be true with the large, dark globe varieties. But I enjoy the taste of bitter, either as the focus of a dish, or as a contrast to other flavors. And it can indeed be tough, especially when cooked with dry heat. But when slowly stewed with roasted garlic and Aleppo pepper, it makes a flavorful and silky puree. 
Taste and texture aside, a compelling reason to rescue eggplant skin from the 
bin is nutrition. A phytonutrient, nasunin, is found in eggplant skin. Nasunin is a 
potent antioxidant and free radical scavenger that protects the cell membranes 
in the brain.
Eggplant skin = brain food = greater capacity to think about food. I love closing circles.
Thinking about food is not always an intellectual exercise. Sometimes, it is finding the sublime in the banal.

harvest

What grows together…goes together?

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Are the tomatoes more intense this year because 5 years ago, I built raised beds from recycled lumber and filled them with black gold (black gold indeed…that truckload of compost cost me more than some jewelry)? Or is it because of the soft rock phosphate (so finely ground that the wind threatened to blow it away) that promised to raise the mineral content of the soil and increase the cell density of the crops?
Are the peaches extraordinarily sweet because 3 years ago, I took the time to dig a hole much larger and deeper than I needed to? Or can it be attributed to the carefully blended brew of blood meal (nitrogen), bone meal (phosphorous), wood ash (potassium) and compost tea that I apply each spring?
Or is Mother Nature being extra generous with her blessings this year?

potato juniper

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fingerling potatoes in a progression of textures and temperatures

clockwise from top right:

baked potato skin [hot/cold]   juniper. creme fraiche. caviar

potato salad [cold]   pickled 83˚potatoes. mustard mayo. juniper snow

raclette potato [warm]   potato puree. raclette

juniper roasted potato [hot]   coffee oil. balinese salt

potato soup [hot]   smoked potato. maytag blue. gin foam. crispy potato spoon

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Juniper is an coniferous (cone-bearing) shrub that belongs to the Cypress family. Along the east coast of the United States, the native juniper is Juniperus VirginianaIMG_5588
and is identified by tiny scale-like needles and small berries that are green throughout the summer and turn dusky blue in the fall. These berries are actually cones and are used in the production of gin, providing it's distinct flavor. The berries, like the needles, have a clean, bracing botanical flavor.

baked potato skin

A taste of earth, sea, pasture and forest.

fingerling potatoes
juniper oil
creme fraiche, chilled
caviar, chilled

Bake fingerling potatoes in a 350 F oven until tender. Cut each in half and scoop out most of the flesh. Rub with juniper oil and return to oven until they begin to crisp. Put a dollop of creme fraiche in each potato skin and top with caviar. Serve immediately.
To make juniper oil
: Wash sprigs of juniper and pat dry with paper towels. Add to blender with enough extra virgin olive oil to cover. Blend until sprigs are finely chopped and oil turns green. Strain through a fine mesh sieve.

potato salad

83C is the optimum temperature for sous vide vegetables as explained by Chad on this post. Cooking the potatoes with vinegar and salt pickles them as they cook.
The grated juniper snow is a refreshing jolt against the warm spice of mustard and earthy potatoes. 

potatoes:
fingerling potatoes, cut into 1/8" slices
white wine vinegar
salt
olive oil

Lay potato slices out on a plate and sprinkle liberally with vinegar and salt and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Pack potato slices into a vacuum bag in a single layer and add excess vinegar from plate. Vacuum and seal. Place in 83C water bath and cook for 90 minutes. Remove bag from bath and chill in refrigerator until cold.

mustard mayo:
2 parts prepared mayonnaise
1 part whole grain mustard
honey, lemon juice, and salt to taste

Combine all ingredients until well blended. Chill.

juniper snow:
200 g water

25 g juniper needles

10 g agave nectar

3 g salt

Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until juniper is finely chopped. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Transfer to a plastic storage container and freeze until solid. Simultaneously, place an empty metal bowl into freezer. Pop block of ice out of container and grate to form snow, letting it fall loosely into chilled metal bowl. Freeze until ready to use.

raclette potato

This is a reconstructed potato, made from potato puree set with Methocel and wrapped with a melted raclette cheese skin. For recipe and step-by-step illustrations, see previous post.


juniper roasted potato

Roasting the potatoes wrapped in juniper releases it'sIMG_5649
 aromatic essential oils, perfuming the potatoes (and your kitchen) with it's scent. Alternately, they can be roasted over hot coals for a primal experience. 

Lerida makes a blended oil from extra virgin olive oil and virgin coffee oil that is simply amazing. Here, it rounds out the spicy, woody tones of the juniper.

juniper sprigs

fingerling potatoes

coffee oil

balinese hollow salt 

Preheat oven to 375F. Wrap juniper sprigs around potatoes and fasten in place with small gauge wire. Place on baking

sheet and roast until potatoes are tender. Unwrap while

hot, drizzle with coffee oil and sprinkle with salt.

potato soup

Creamy and comforting, earthy potatoes with the complexity of smoke, the bite of blue cheese, and a kiss of gin, delivered with a crispy potato spoon. A satisfying finish.

soup:

1 large potato, peeled and cut into 1" chunks

2 cups milk

3 Tblsps butter

3 oz Maytag blue cheese

salt and pepper

Place potato chunks into saucepan with enough salted water to cover. Cook over high heat until very tender. Drain, and pass through a ricer. Set aside to cool.

When cool, place potatoes in a smoker and lightly smoke. Or, to create your own smoker, use a pan that can be fitted with a steamer basket and a cover. Fill the pan with wood chips and a small amount of water. Cook, covered, to create the smoke. When the water has evaporated, place the potato puree in the steamer basket, quickly covering to hold in the smoke. Remove the potatoes after approximately 1 minute or when the flavor of the smoke has permeated the potatoes.

Place the milk, butter, and blue cheese into a saucepan and heat until butter and blue cheese have melted. Add the smoked potato puree and blend with an immersion blender until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Keep soup hot until ready to serve.IMG_5738

hot gin foam:

150 g gin 

100 g water

2.5 g soy lecithin

Combine water, gin, and lecithin in a small saucepan. Heat until very hot. Quickly form foam by blending with immersion blender. Keep foam hot until ready to serve.

Crispy potato spoon:

Cut a 1/2" thick slice from a large potato. Cut a spoon shape from the slice. Carve out the underside of the handle, leaving it 1/4" thick. Scoop out the bowl of the spoon with a melon baller. Carve the underside of the bowl until it is of a uniform thickness. Rub the spoon on all of the surfaces with olive oil. Place, bowl-side-down, on a baking sheet and bake in a 250F oven until it is browned and crispy. (If the handle browns faster than the bowl, wrap it with parchment paper, then foil.)