corn langoustine plantago

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There's a prevalent flavor in raw plantago that intrigues me. It's the same nutty oiliness that is found in arugula. It's reminiscent of a nut oil that is starting to go off– not rancid, but strangely pleasant. Unlike arugula, it's not followed by a sharp bite. Like arugula, it matches well with corn.

Anything cold and easy is all that I crave on these dog days of summer. Fresh corn, put through a juicer along with a chunk of fresh coconut, seasoned with salt and a squeeze of lime, requires little energy to prepare and even less to consume. Swirling on fresh plantago juice and brown buttermilk allows the flavors to meet and mingle on the palate and not be muddied on the plate. A quick salad of langoustine tails, dressed with a light and tangy brown buttermilk vinaigrette completes the dish.

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osso bucco

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Every time that I eat osso bucco, I think of Billy Collins' eponymous poem:

"I love the sound of the bone against the plate

and the fortress-like look of it

lying before me in a moat of risotto,

the meat soft as the leg of an angel

who has lived a purely airborne existence.

And best of all, the secret marrow,

the invaded privacy of the animal

prized out with a knife and swallowed down

with cold, exhilarating wine." 

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"osso bucco"
fregula
charred artichoke lemon garlic
crisp artichoke blossoms

It's a shame that osso bucco isn't found on more fine dining menus– what with its angel-soft meat and secret marrow.  I suspect that the clumsy bone is part of the problem. Removing it makes for a more refined presentation and controlled portion.

As much as I love the cross-section of shank, I'll admit that my favorite cut of veal is the breast. The long-fibered brisket, when slooowly braised between layers of fat with the rib bones attached, is pure nirvana. The only thing missing is the marrow… until now [thank-you Activa].

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tangerine gingerbread coconut black sesame

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Gingerbread– a western invention inspired by eastern spices– makes perfect sense when paired with other asian flavors: coconut, tangerine, and black sesame. Although lemon verbena is not widely used in the east, its exotic flavor fits in with the aromatic cuisines of Southeast Asia and provides this dish with a lilting high note. 
An interesting synergy developed with the tangerine component. It had started out as a whipped gelatin where sweetened juice was blended with 3% gelatin. Upon whipping, it felt thin. In an attempt to raise the viscosity, I decided against xanthan and opted for methocel. In the initial test, 0.5% of methocel F50 showed a marked improvement in texture. In a subsequent test, increasing the amount to 1% resulted in a dense foam with a rich mouthfeel reminiscent of a fruit curd…definitely something to play with.

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And so, with ginger bread returned to its home (and in high spirits), this journey ends.
I think I hear the forest calling…

ras el hanout montenebro date

Deep in the Sahara, a dry, desert wind blows, picking up speed as it travels north. By the time that it reaches North Africa, it collides with a cool, humid air mass that blows off the Mediterranean, forming the formidable ill wind known as the sirocco. 

The chergui, as it is called in Morocco, wreaks havoc at the marketplace in Marrakesh, disrupting displays and covering wares with dust and sand. The spice merchants watch helplessly as the carefully formed cones of their finest spice are sent swirling into the air, caught by the chergui and carried off like loot as it makes its way east.  
In Tunisia, it blows through plantations of date palms. The tall, slender trunks bow in its wake, mercilessly shaking the fronds and dislodging the drupes. These, too, are caught in the wind and carried north. 
It makes its way across Malta, where it plunders a lemon grove, then up the coast to Naples, where it leaves the maccheronaros enraged as it makes off with sheets of pasta.
From there, it travels due west, across the Mediterranean, picking up speed and humidity. When it reaches Spain, it glides over ancient landscapes and makes its way to the elevated plains of Castilla y Leon. Approaching the fortified city of Avila, it sweeps over Romanesque walls, topples herds of goats, then takes off with their prized Montenebro cheese.
Turning south, it heads back towards the Mediterranean to Jerez de la Frontera. It rushes through a vineyard, uprooting vines of Pedro Ximenez and swipes multiple bottles of Fino off a shelf at a bodega. It hightails itself out of town, but not before ruffling the skirts of a group of flamenco dancers.  
Propelled by a low pressure system on its tail, it makes its way across the Atlantic. Laden with mischief and loot, the wind tires and loses momentum. When it reaches the New World, it has barely enough energy to make its way through an open door, seeking a safe spot to deposit its spoils before going off to expire.
An unsuspecting resident enters the room and stares in disbelief at the scene before her. Every surface in the kitchen is covered with piles of fragrant spice, sheets of pasta, logs of cheese, lemons, dates, and bottles of sherry. She shudders as a cold breeze brushes past her and she closes the door. 
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ras el hanout raviolo filled with Montenebro
dried date and fino sherry puree
spruce powder
yogurt with sumac
puffed ras el hanout pasta
fresh date
preserved lemon
spruce

montenebro

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Montenebro is a cheese that is made from pasteurized goats milk. It is also known as Queso de Tietar, as it is only made in Valle de Tietar in the province of Avila in Castilla y Leon, Spain.
It is distinct from other goat cheese made in the region and is distinguished by its flattened log shape (said to be modeled after a Castilian mule's foot) and its soft, dark rind. Within the rind is a pale, creamy paste that is gloriously dense and creamy.
Montenebro is not a cheese for the meek–it is assertive and pungent with characteristic barnyard flavor, mellowed by notes of hazelnut and pine (enebro, in Spanish, is juniper). It demands to be enjoyed with bold flavors and wines with weight and intensity.

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montenebro
eggplant roasted with ras el hanout
crispy lamb pancetta
date puree
quail egg
escarole
oloroso sherry

pork apple cedar

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Pork and apple…you knew it was coming– didn't you? 
I've been playing with this classic pairing for awhile now, but none of the permutations have inspired me to post on it. In fact, I recently paired pork belly with apple pie. I was actually quite excited about it because I knew the flavors would work if I kept the sugar in check and it would further break down the wall of what we perceive as a savory and a dessert. And even though I made the crust with lard (which, by the way, makes the flakiest pastry), it didn't come together for me. I think that the problem was the crust itself; the texture distracted from the creamy/crispy pork belly. I haven't completely abandoned it, though…just filed it away for another time.
In the meantime, the apple caramel gel entered the picture with its butterscotchy mouthfeel, caramelized apple flavor, and balance of sweet with tart. It was the perfect element to unite the spiced apple balls–three types of apples sous vide with spiced butter (honeycrisp-nutmeg, gala-cinnamon, roma-clove)–with the cedar-scented pork. The scent of the spiced apples, when warmed on a vanilla bean, alongside the cedar pork, is intoxicating and stirs up all kinds of memories of hearth and home. The crisp element–a cylinder of whipped granny smith apple gel–reminded me of an apple core, which inspired this presentation. Finally, the baby leeks that I started from seeds in October, introduced notes of umami.
I hope this was worth the wait…I know it was for me.
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turkey and trimmings

After spending the better part of yesterday breaking down and carving countless turkeys (yes, people really do order pre-roasted, pre-carved turkeys), I just had to play. All those sinews and tenacious muscles clinging to bones. Not to mention the incompatible white meat/dark meat cooking factor.

While gnawing meat off the bone makes for a primal experience, there are times when I want something more refined. If nature was not going to provide me with a product that can be cooked integrally and be easy to eat, I thought that I would give it a shot.

A core of brined white meat, wrapped around the wing bone, followed by a thin slice of brined dark meat, then skin…mission accomplished. 

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One thing that I've learned over the years is that Thanksgiving is the one holiday that I can play with presentations, as long as the traditional flavor profiles remain in tact. At least thats how it plays out in my family.
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white meat/dark meat petite drumstick
sweet potato marshmallow
liquid stuffing
brussels sprouts
whipped potatoes
pickled cranberries

This year, I am thankful that Thanksgiving only comes around once a year, and that someone else will be cooking my dinner.

Happy Thanksgiving!

tuna pumpernickel sunchoke yacon

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pumpernickel pudding
sunchoke nuggets
pickled yacon
honey mustard pearls
white sage
pumpernickel pudding
120g egg yolks
120g sour cream
250g whole milk
150g coarse, dry pumpernickel crumbs
salt to taste
Preheat oven to 350. Butter the insides of individual molds or set them in a large baking dish.
In a large bowl, whisk together the yolks, sour cream, milk, and salt. Fold in the pumpernickel and pour into molds. Fill the baking dish with enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the molds. Cover the baking dish with foil. Place in oven and bake until the puddings are no longer wet in the centers.
sunchoke nuggets
250g sunchokes, peeled and cut into brunoise
50g unsalted butter 
salt and pepper to taste
Heat a heavy skillet over medium high heat until hot. Add butter. When butter starts to brown, add sunchokes and toss well. Season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking, constantly tossing in browned butter until sunchokes are crispy on the outside and soft inside.
pickled yacon
150g yacon, peeled and thinly shaved
250g rice wine vinegar
5g salt
5g sugar
Bring the vinegar, sugar and salt to a boil. Allow to cool to room temperature. Pour over the yacon in a nonreactive bowl. Cover and chill for 1 hour.
honey mustard pearls
40g dijon mustard
20g honey
20g water
1g agar
1 quart cold vegetable oil
Whisk together the mustard, honey, water and agar. Bring to a boil. Fill a syringe with the mixture and squeeze out individual drops into cold oil. Let pearls stand in oil for a few minutes to gel. Scoop out pearls with a mesh strainer and rinse with cool water.