blossoming

salmon passion fruit hollandaise

My play with Transglutaminase continues after an intensive week of catering. Here I’ve made a salmon ravioli filled with passion fruit hollandaise. When I used to work the line, the hollandaise was made before service and kept in a warm bath. This didn’t make sense to me and I insisted on making it to order, which pissed everyone off. They backed down when I proved that a perfect sauce could be made in the time that it took them to get their pans hot.

My entry into the world of cooking was through the sweet side. The skills that I have learned from baking have eased my transition to the savory side of the kitchen. I look for the moments when the two worlds collide and the transition feels seamless.

One day, while making a lemon curd, it occurred to me that I was essentially making a sweetened hollandaise. Although the cooking methods and proportions varies slightly between the two, the chemistry is the same in forming these egg-emulsified sauces. They share the same trio of key ingredients: egg yolks, fat in the form of butter, and acid in the form of lemon juice. When isolating these ingredients and considering possible alternatives, it becomes easy to imagine flavor variations on the classic hollandaise. Egg yolks are unique in their protein coagulation, but acid can be introduced in the form of any fruit juice that has a PH of 3.0 or lower so as not to over-dilute the egg yolk. Candidates that fall in this range are: grapefruit, lime, cranberries, gooseberries, wild grapes, verjus, raspberries, rhubarb, pomegranates, tamarind, and passion fruit. These are all flavors that I’ve used to make fruit curds, so why not hollandaise? To bring it back to the savory realm, even the butter can be replaced with solidifying fats such as: foie, bacon, duck fat, serrano fat. Can you see where I’m going? Does this excite you as much as it does me?

For this ravioli, the hollandaise posed a challenge because it needed to solidify in order to glue the thin sheets of salmon around it, then to revert to it’s fluid sauce state when reheated. A traditional hollandaise was not stable enough to endure the freezing and cooking process without curdling. I fiddled with a few additives and techniques before hitting on the simple addition of a small amount of gelatin. This allowed the hollandaise to firm up sufficiently without the need to be frozen, which I suspect had destabilized the emulsification, and to remelt in the sous vide bath.

sous vide salmon ravioli filled with passion fruit hollandaise
crispy salmon skin
asparagus ramp puree
spiced rum beads

shortcake strawberry

By the time that March rolls in, winter begins to feel like a guest who has overstayed its welcome. There are days when it murmurs its promise of imminent departure, then turns a cold shoulder and digs in deeper.
The anticipation unsettles me.
I cope with this polarity by alternately sowing seeds and baking, The sowing fills me with hope for what is to come, while baking provides comfort during this last vestige of winter.

In unabashed defiance of this in-between season, I’ve made strawberry shortcake.
It started out in a traditional form…you know the one…shortcake biscuit, split in half, filled with macerated sliced strawberries, billows of whipped sweet cream.
It was delicious, but there were leftovers.
And I started thinking about the crumbs on the outside of a Good Humor strawberry shortcake (it’s the best part).
And you know how I like to play…

shortcake strawberry
shortcake
3/4 cups flour
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tblsps unsalted butter, cut into small bits
1/4 cup heavy cream
cream
1 cup heavy cream, well chilled
2 Tblsps cool water
1 tsp powdered gelatin
1 Tblsp confectioners sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups reserved coarse shortcake crumbs
glaze
1 cup strawberry puree
1 tsp powdered gelatin
sugar and/or lemon juice to taste
crumbs
1/2 cup reserved fine shortcake crumbs
1/2 cup crumbled freeze dried strawberries, kept in an airtight container until needed
1/4 cup toasted,unsweetened dessicated coconut

shortcake: Preheat oven to 375 F. Line a small baking sheet with parchment or a silpat. Place the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the butter bits and blend in thoroughly on med-low speed using the paddle attachment. Add the cream and mix just until the dough comes together in a mass. Transfer dough to the prepared baking sheet and form into a rough rectangle that is 3/4" thick. Cut the rectangle in half to form 2 squares and separate them, leaving about 1" space in between them. Bake for 20 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Remove from oven and turn oven down to 150F. Allow shortcakes to cool completely. Crumble the cooled shortcakes with your hands into pieces about the size of peas. Measure out 1 1/2 cups of coarse crumbs and reserve. Further crumble the remaining coarse crumbs into pieces about the size of rice. Measure out 1/2 cup of these fine crumbs and spread them out on the baking sheet. Return to oven for about 8-10 minutes or until they are dry and crisp, but have not browned. Reserve.
cream: Place the heavy cream in the bowl of an electric mixer and place in refrigerator to chill. In a small bowl, place the water and sprinkle on the gelatin. Allow to soften for 3 minutes. Whisk and place in the microwave at 5- second intervals until gelatin is dissolved and clear. Whisk well and set aside. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and whip with whisk attachment on high speed until cream stands at soft peaks. Sprinkle the powdered sugar and vanilla over the cream and beat just until incorporated. Pour the dissolved gelatin in the center of the cream all at once and immediately beat until it holds stiff peaks. Immediately fold in coarse shortcake crumbs. Set aside in refrigerator to chill for about 15 minutes or until set. Remove from refrigerator and form into large quenelles, using 2 tablespoons, with one rounded end and one pointed. Transfer the quenelles onto a plate lined with plastic wrap. Transfer to the freezer and let set just until outside is firm, but not frozen through, about 10-15 minutes.
glaze: While cream mixture is in the freezer, place the strawberry puree in a bowl. Taste it–if the berries were ripe it should be sweet and well balanced. If not, adjust to your taste. Remove about 2 Tablespoons of puree to a smaller bowl. Sprinkle on the gelatin and let soften for 3 minutes. Whisk and place in the microwave at 5-second intervals until gelatin is dissolved and clear. Whisk again, then pour into remaining puree and whisk well. Transfer this mixture into a tall narrow vessel in which you can completely submerge the quenelles. Remove the quenelles from the freezer. Impale the sharp end of a skewer into the rounded end of a quenelle. Lift off the plate and submerge into the puree until quenelle is well coated. Lift out and replace on plate. Repeat with remaining quenelles. Transfer to refrigerator to set puree.
crumbs: Combine fine shortcake crumbs, freeze dried strawberries, and coconut just before using as the strawberries will become soft within 5-10 minutes after combining.

banana pandan date

Inspired by a new flavor and technique…

pandan panna cotta
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup half and half
1/2 cup finely chopped pandan leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
1 Tablespoon sugar
In a small saucepan, stir together the cream, half and half, and pandan. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Cover tightly, then set aside to steep until cool. When cool, strain through a sieve and return infusion back into the saucepan. Sprinkle the gelatin over the surface and allow to soften for 5 minutes. Whisk in the gelatin, followed by the sugar and place over medium high heat, whisking until mixture is very hot and sugar and gelatin have dissolved. Pour into four 1/3 cup molds and chill until set, 2-4 hours.

date lime molasses
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup diced dates
1/4 cup lime juice
2 Tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon butter
Put water and dates into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cover saucepan and allow to simmer for 10-15 minutes or until dates are very soft. Puree mixture in a food processor and press through a fine sieve or tamis. Return to saucepan and stir in remaining ingredients. Cook over low heat until mixture reduces and thickens to the consistency of molasses. Let cool.

sugar crusted banana
3 lbs (7 cups) granulated sugar
3 egg whites
4 ripe, peeled bananas
Mix the egg whites into the sugar until well blended. On a baking sheet, form sugar mixture into 4 separate bases, each about 2’" wider and longer than banana, and about 1/2" thick. Place a banana on top of each base and cover with additional sugar mixture to completely enclose. Press firmly to compact sugar, paying close attention to the seam along the base. Bake in a preheated 275 F oven for 1 hour. Remove from oven and set aside to for 15 minutes before opening crust.

to finish
coconut powder (dried coconut cream) found in asian markets or online.
coquitos (baby coconuts) found in hispanic markets or online
Unmold panna cottas by wrapping a hot, wet towel around molds until they release.
Break open the sugar crust by driving the tip of a knife along the edges until it breaks away and banana can be dislodged.
Screen molasses onto plates. Place a chilled panna cotta, sliced warm banana, coconut powder and coquito on each plate.
Serves 4

miracle fruit

feeling bitter?

Miracle fruit (Sideroxylon dulcificum) contain an active glycoprotein molecule that binds to taste buds, causing sour or bitter foods that are consumed 30 minutes to 2 hours after chewing the berries to taste sweet.

Click here for an account of one persons experience.
Or here to order some.
If you live in NYC or SF, click here if you would like to go to a Miracle fruit party.

blue cheese demythified

I used to think that blue cheese was an urban legend…

In my youth, a neighborhood kid once told me about a cheese that was blue with mold. It was the kind of conversation that kids have when they want to gross each other out, but he was serious. I refused to believe him … I mean, who would willingly eat moldy cheese? Surely, it belonged in the same category as the bogeyman; a tool used by mothers to threaten their children into compliance.

And I was no stranger to funky cheeses. My parents would load their suitcases with oozing, washed rind stink-bombs on their frequent trips to Portugal. So offensive were they, that every article of clothing had to be aired out and washed, while the suitcase itself was immediately banished to the furthest corner of the attic. Thinking about it now, it’s a wonder that they ever made it past customs.

But, of course, I grew up, developed a palate, and came face to face with the blue veined myth. I can’t say that it was love at first bite, but it grew on me, and I quickly developed a taste for it. In fact, I often crave it.

I am fortunate to have sampled many varieties of blue cheese. I count Fourme d’Ambert, Roquefort and Cabrales among my favorites; each one unique, and possessing it’s own endearing qualities. I like to eat the mellower, milky varieties like Fourme d’Ambert, Maytag, and Gorgonzola with marmelada, the Portuguese equivalent of membrillo, that my mother makes every year from the marmelos (quinces) that she harvests from a tree in her back yard. The stinging Roquefort and fierce Cabrales pairs very nicely with dead- ripe pineapple.

On a recent trip to NYC, I stumbled upon a variety that I was unfamiliar with- Mossend Blue from Bonnieview Farms in Vermont, made from raw milk. It looked so seductive that before I even sampled it, I knew that it would be coming home with me.

Having both marmelada and ripe pineapple on hand, I sampled each separately with the Mossend Blue and was undecided. When I put all 3 flavors together, I was amazed at well they played together; the quince forming a bridge, both linking and supporting the sharpness of the cheese and astringency of the pineapple.

I almost always trust my sense of taste and smell, but when I stumble upon a new combination that surprises me, I seek confirmation. In these instances, I turn to the well designed site FOODPAIRING, but could not find it there. Turning to another source, a database of flavor and scent components, produced 2 hits that confirmed a link to these 3 flavors: 2-heptanone and butyl isobutyrate. I love when that happens.

Mossend Blue
quince paste
pineapple
duck confit
frisee
serrano ham foam
sichuan- pineapple caramel

The Mossend Blue is the star of this dish, but the award for the best supporting role goes to the sichuan- pineapple caramel for its sweet, tangy, spicy taste and fruity, floral aroma.

Sichuan- Pineapple Caramel
1 cup sugar
1 cup fresh pineapple juice
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 tsp freshly ground sichuan pepper

Place the sugar and juice in a large saucepan and cook over medium high heat, skimming off any foam that appears on the surface with a spoon. Continue cooking over medium high heat until the mixture thickens and turns amber. When it reaches the soft ball stage (about 240 F), remove the pan from the stove and quickly stir in the cream using care as the temperature of the cream will cause the hot caramel to sputter and foam. Stir in the sichuan pepper. The cooled caramel can be stored in a jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, if you can resist it for that long.

fig x3

January is not normally thought of as fig season, but I had about a dozen perfect specimens left over from a catering job. While I was packing up the car, I realised that I had not eaten and my stomach was beginning to protest. I put the leftover figs and some cheese within arms reach for the long drive home. I munched happily, marveling at how perfectly ripe the figs were, and began composing this dish in my head. The thing about serving different preparations of the same item on one plate is that they should each be unique in flavor, texture, and presentation in order to create excitement, yet there should exist some thread of continuity between them–they should relate to one another–otherwise, you will only create confusion and disparity. With this "rule" in mind, I decided on flavors and presentation and made mental lists, but when I went to reach for another fig, there were no more…I had eaten every one. I knew that I could not wait until next fall to execute this dish, so I decided to side track my route home to the store where I had purchased them with hopes that there would be more. I was lucky, there was one box left for me.

Tangy, herbal

fresh fig, trimmed to expose soft interior, marinated in A L’Olivier Figue (great product), set on a bed of selvatica arugula, dressed with figue and marjoram oil vinaigrette.

Salty, sweet, herbal

fresh fig, lightly poached with hibiscus and elderflower, split and filled with compressed ball of minced serrano ham, toasted hickory nuts and fresh marjoram, dressed with marjoram oil and sprigs.

Sweet, tangy

sliced fig dome filled with dolce gorgonzola and caramelized mascarpone set on base of hibiscus soaked olive oil genoise, served with dehydrated rambutan

pear butterscotch gingerbread

comice pear
butterscotch pudding
caramelized mascarpone
gingerbread pebbles and soil
hickory nut cream
roasted pear gel

tequila sunrise

Ah, citrus…a ray of sunshine in the bleak of winter.

One of the first elaborate dishes that I recall making with citrus was a terrine in which supremes of various citrus were layered in a mold, ascending in color from dark to light. Each layer was set with its own gelled juice and when sliced, made a stunning presentation. I served it as a dessert then, with white chocolate ice cream and a caramel tuile, but I have since used it as a component to other courses. In fact, I have come to rely on it as a bright, high note to play off of other elements such as lobster or ginger glazed duck.

I’ve been thinking about this terrine lately–how to refine it and simplify its form. When considering the translucency of the citrus slices, tissue paper came to mind. If you are me, when the brain connects food to a non food item, its time to play.

Tissue paper collage was my introduction to color mixing, learning how layering colors produces new colors and design. This concept, applied to food really excites me, because of the added element of taste. Imagine a collage of thin veneers of poached vegetables layered on a plate, each bite a different color and flavor…the mind reels with possibilities. Back to the task at hand…

Keeping the design linear produced an ombre effect. I couldn’t help but think of a Tequila Sunrise, which threw me in a new direction with flavors. Color is always foremost in my mind when designing a dish, and I decided that green was where I wanted to go with this. I auditioned different flavor combinations and chose pumpkin seeds (pepitas), green chili, and cilantro. I knew that texturally, I wanted a rich, creamy element and so I combined the ground pepitas with yogurt (I would have used kefir or labne if I had some on hand) and allowed it to drain overnight to produce a sort of cheese. The green chili and cilantro oil adds a counterpoint of heat and herb.

What to drink with this? Tequila, of course…preferably a smooth, balanced anejo like Chinaco.

Citrus Pave

pave:
thinly sliced supremes of:
blood orange
ruby grapefruit
orange (reserve juice)
white grapefruit (reserve juice)
1/2 tsp gelatin
1 oz tequila
On a sheet of plastic wrap, lay down overlapping slices of citrus starting at the top with the white grapefruit, in shingle-style rows, working down to the blood oranges. Keep in mind that the surface touching the plastic wrap will be the top. Place in the refrigerator to chill thoroughly. Combine the reserved juices and measure 1/2 cup . Sprinkle the gelatin over and allow to soften. Heat until gelatin dissolves. Stir in tequila and let cool to room temperature. Remove pave from refrigerator and spoon a thin layer of the gelatin over the top of citrus, spreading to completely cover. Chill until set and repeat 2-3 times until you have achieved an even, thin layer that will hold together the slices.

pumpkin seed- yogurt cheese:
1/2 cup yogurt
2 Tbsps finely ground pumpkin seeds
pinch salt
Mix all ingredients together well. Make 4 small cones out of triangles of parchment. Snip the tip to produce a small hole for drainage and suspend them in tall shot glasses so that their tips are not touching the bottom, and fold back the parchment that rises over the glass. This is easier to do if you slit the excess parchment to the rims. Tie a string or rubber band over the excess to secure. Spoon in about 2 Tblsps of yogurt mix into each cone, being careful to not leave air pockets. Move to refrigerator and allow to drain overnight.

serrano-cilantro oil:
Flesh from 2 serrano chilies
1 cup cilantro leaves
pinch salt
3/4 cup avocado oil
Place the chilies,cilantro and salt in a blender or food processor with a little of the oil until finely chopped. Drizzle in the remaining oil with the motor running.

to plate: Cut the pave to desired size. Invert onto plate using the plastic wrap. Unmold cones by peeling away the parchment. Arrange on pave and dot plate with oil.

Sweet Lemon/Sour Orange

you just know that Mother Nature was giggling when she planted these.

These are not new, just new to me.

(left) Sweet Lemon (Citrus Limetta) Round and thin skinned, these seemed so promising when I scratched and sniffed the rinds– heady and floral with spicy undertones– but the pulp is a disappointment– insipid and unremarkable. At least I can salvage the zest. A quick search yielded no practical uses…can’t imagine why this one is still being propagated.

(right) Sour Orange (Citrus Arantium) Also known as bitter orange, this is the All-Star of the orange game. It makes the best marmalade and is used to flavor Grand Marnier, Curacao, and Triple Sec. Its flowers lend their fragrance to orange flower water and the seductive Neroli oil. The pulp is wonderfully puckery and sweet– that is if you can get to it through all of the seeds. No danger of extinction here. I plan to preserve these in salt. After a few weeks, I can utilize them in a relish with cerignola olives, toasted marcona almonds, and roasted piquillo peppers.