honeycomb candy

Science was my weakest subject in school. Although I had not yet decided on an occupation, I knew that it would be in a creative field, to which science would be irrelevent. As it stands, I was wrong. Science and creativity are two sides of the coin that is cooking. Modern cooks understand this.
Despite my lack of interest in hypothesis and theories, the experiments captured my attention. One in particular was the effect of carbon dioxide when combining baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) with an acid. The voluminous foam that billowed out of the beaker and all over the lab table delighted and fascinated me.
I find myself now, many years later, reliving that experience. This time, the results are edible and delicious.

honeycomb
candy
3/4 cup sugar
2 Tbspns water
2 Tbspns honey
1 1/2 tsps
baking
soda

Because the final steps must be executed rapidly, before you start cooking the sugar have ready: a baking sheet that has been well greased or lined with a silpat, a whisk and the premeasured baking soda.
Spread the sugar out in an even layer in the bottom of a large saucepan. Drizzle the water and honey over the sugar and place on a burner over high heat. Cook, without stirring, until it reaches 300F. You will observe the sugar melting, then the syrup forming small, tight bubbles, then the bubbles will become larger and looser and finally, the syrup will begin to take on an amber color. When it reaches 300F., immediately remove it from the heat. Quickly add the baking soda and whisk just until the baking soda is mixed in. In one quick motion, dump the foaming syrup onto the prepared baking sheet. Do not spread or disturb, as this will cause it to deflate. Let it stand until cool to the touch, about 10 minutes. Break or cut into pieces. Transfer immediately to an airtight container to preserve the crispness.

teacakes

                     "It has been said that tea is suggestive of a thousand wants,
                                 from which spring the decencies and luxuries of civilization"
                                                                                                               Agnes Repplier

Tea is a seemingly simple beverage, just water and leaves, yet look deeper and you will find that it is steeped in legend, ritual, history, geography, religion, and politics. Once available only to emperors and kings, it can now be found in the humblest of pantries around the world.
What you may not know about tea is that white, green, oolong and black teas all come from the same plant, Camellia Senesis. The difference lies in the stage at which the leaves are harvested, and in the way that they are processed. The simplest form being white tea, which is harvested from young buds before they open and quickly dried before oxidation can take place. The most complex (and rarest) is the pu-erh, which is allowed to oxidize, then fermented in a process similar to composting for up to a year, then compressed and aged further. One international hotel lists a 1949 Vintage Cave-aged pu-erh on its tea menu at $90 a cup and a 1985 Royal Reserve (that was hand carried out of China after a 5 year negotiation) at $300 a cup! Who knew?

matcha genoise
A genoise, or sponge cake, contains no leavening. Instead, it gets its lightness from whipped eggs. Because it contains no fat in the form of butter or oil, it tends to be dry, which can be corrected by soaking it with a simple syrup. I’ve found that the addition of a small amount of gelatin in the syrup helps it cling to the cake, producing a moist instead of wet texture. Matcha, which is the powdered form of green tea, blends in very nicely with the dry ingredients, lending the cake its vibrant green color and characteristic grassy flavor.

matcha genoise
orange flower syrup
honey ginger buttercream
meyer lemon ice cream
honeycomb candy

matcha genoise
1/3 cup sifted cake flour
3 Tblsps cornstarch
2 Tblsps matcha
2 whole eggs
3 egg yolks
2 egg whites
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 tsp cream of tartar

syrup
2 Tblsps sugar
1/4 cup water
1/4 tsp powdered gelatin
1/8 tsp orange flower water

cake: Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease and flour a 9" cake pan. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch and matcha. In a large bowl, beat the whole eggs, the yolks, and the sugar on high speed for about 5 minutes, or until thick, fluffy, and about tripled in volume. Sift half of the flour mixture over the eggs and fold in with a spatula. Repeat with the remainder of the flour mixture. In a separate bowl, whip the egg whites just until foamy. Sprinkle on the cream of tartar and continue whipping to stiff peaks. Fold the whites into the batter, then pour into prepared cake pan and level off the top. Place in the oven immediately and bake for 25 minutes, or until the top springs back when pressed, or a cake tester comes out clean. Remove from oven and allow to cool for 15 minutes before turning out of pan to finish cooling.
syrup: Place sugar and water into a small saucepan. Sprinkle the gelatin over the top and allow to soften for 3 minutes. Whisk the gelatin into the mixture an place over medium high heat until it comes to a full, rolling boil, and the gelatin and sugar are dissolved. Cover tightly and remove from heat. Allow to cool to room temperature and stir in the orange flower water. Brush or spoon the syrup over the cake.

rooibos butter cake
Rooibos is considered a tisane, or herbal tea, as it comes from red bush, Aspalanthus linearis, indigenous to South Africa, and not Camillia Senensis. It contains no caffeine, and has a naturally sweet cream and vanilla flavor with hints of sun- baked hay. For the color and flavor to permeate this cake, it will need to be finely ground (I use a coffee grinder), then steeped in hot water. Butter cake, as the name implies, gets its moisture and richness from butter, as well as eggs and sugar. In this recipe, I’ve used honey and brown sugar to enhance the flavor of the rooibos. The acidic buttermilk reacts with the alkaline baking soda to give the cake its lift, while the protein in the eggs and gluten in the flour give it structure.

rooibos butter cake
creamsicle marble
mango
tangerine caramel

rooibos butter cake
1/4 cup finely ground rooibos
1 1/4 cups hot water
2 1/2 cup sifted cake flour
1 1/4 cup muscovado or brown sugar
2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour a 9" cake pan. Place the rooibos in a large bowl and cover with hot water. Stir well and allow to steep for 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, brown sugar, baking soda and salt. To the steeped rooibos, add the honey, the butter, and the eggs. Beat on high speed for 2-3 minutes. Beat in half of the flour mixture, then half of the buttermilk. Repeat, using the remainder of flour mixture and milk. Beat for 2 minutes more to aerate. Pour into prepared cake pan and bake for 25-30 minutes or until the top springs back when pressed, or a cake tester comes out clean. Allow to cool for 15 minutes before turning out of pan to finish cooling.

chai financier
Chai is black tea to which spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and black pepper have been added. Financier is moister and denser than genoise or butter cake. Egg whites are used here because they contain more water than the yolks, yet have the same stabilizing protein. Finely ground almonds and browned butter add flavor and texture. Because the eggs and butter are used in liquid form, instead of whipped and creamed,there is less air in this cake, which contributes to it’s density, but also lowers it’s risk of oxidation. This means that the batter can be held in the refrigerator for up to a week (in fact, it improves upon standing) and is ready to be baked on a whim.

chai financier
kala jeera rice pudding
persimon "yolk"
brown butter powder

chai financier
3 oz. blanched almonds
1/2 cup plus 2 Tblsps sugar
1/4 cup plus 2 Tblsps cake flour
1 1/2 Tblsps finely ground chai
1/4 tsp salt
4 egg whites
1/2 cup warm browned butter

Preheat oven to 350F. Grease and flour an 8" cake pan. Place the almonds and 2 Tblsps of the sugar in a food processor and process in short pulses until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the remaining sugar, cake flour, chai and salt and stir until blended. Add the egg whites and beat on medium speed for 2 minutes. Pour in the butter and beat for 2 minutes more. Let stand for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 week in the refrigerator (in which case, the batter should be brought to room temperature and stirred before proceeding). Pour into prepared cake pan and bake for 20-25 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean. Allow to cool for 10 minutes before turning out of pan to finish cooling.

skate mushroom cauliflower cocoa

skate sauteed in browned butter
cauliflower and blue cheese "risotto"
trumpet mushroom
porcini and cocoa consomme
dehydrated cauliflower
crushed cocoa nibs
rosemary blossom

The spark for this dish came from the pairing of chocolate and blue cheese mentioned in the white chocolate and caviar post. I played with the idea of composing a dessert from the pairing, but found myself drawing parallels from their underlying earthiness to that of cauliflower and mushrooms. Not surprising, seeing as these share flavor compounds: butyric acid (buttery) and butraldehyde (nuttiness). Fish also share these characteristics. Not convinced?…give it a try…just remember that the Maillard reaction that occurs when carb- and protein-containing foods are browned over high heat is key to the synthesis of flavors in this dish.

rice-less risotto

Before you look up my email to inform me of the proper definition of risotto…

I am aware that there are people who have pet peeves concerning the nomenclature of foods, myself included (I cringe when I hear "shrimp scampi" or "chai tea"). Risotto, in particular is a hotbed of controversy and we have all heard the arguments:
"it is not risotto unless it’s made with rice"
Or, more specifically:
"it is not risotto unless it’s made with Arborio/Carnaroli/Vialone Nano rice"
If an artist draws a foot and calls it "painting of a hand", don’t we grant him poetic license?

Besides, titling this post "cauliflower cooked in the manner of risotto" wasn’t cutting it.

Now that we’ve established that there is cauliflower and not rice in this dish, you may ask,"what’s the point?" While neither groundbreaking or revelatory, cooking cauliflower in this way brings out the flavor and textural qualities that I like about this vegetable. The initial saute with shallots in butter infuses it with sweet,nutty flavor, then the gradual addition of liquid allows the smaller bits to soften and break down, while the larger bits stay firm.The addition of cheese contributes the characteristic creaminess that we associate with risotto.

Call it whatever you like…I’ll call it good.

cauliflower "risotto"

4 Tblsps of butter
2 shallots, minced
1 medium head of cauliflower, root end trimmed and washed
salt and pepper
1-2 cups of liquid such as water or stock
4 oz. of blue cheese or any creamy cheese that will melt down

In a skillet or large shallow pan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Stir in the shallots and cook slowly until translucent. While the shallot is cooking, roughly chop the cauliflower into 1" pieces. Working in 2-3 batches, chop the
cauliflower in a food processor in short pulses until roughly the size of grains of rice (there will be a combination of very fine pieces as well as larger pieces). Transfer the cauliflower into the pan with the shallots and turn the heat up to medium-high. Saute, while stirring, until it begins to brown. Season with
salt and pepper and add 1/2 cup of liquid, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan. When liquid has nearly evaporated, add another 1/2 cup and turn heat down until liquid maintains a slow simmer. Continue stirring occassionaly, adding small amounts of liquid as necessary, until cauliflower reaches the desired consistency. Remove from heat. Crumble the cheese over the top and stir in until melted and creamy. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

lyophilized

Freeze drying is a complex process in which a product is frozen and dehydrated under vacuum. It differs from other drying methods in that the resulting products are virtually weightless and possess a shattering crisp bite similar to baked meringues that melts quickly away .The process leaves the flavor true and intact, yet amazingly amplified.

Chef Laurent Gras, formerly of Peacock Alley, NYC, and currently preparing to open his own restaurant, L.2O in Chicago, has installed a custom designed freeze dry machine in his new kitchen and it is formidable, both in presence and potential. Follow his odyssey into the making of what promises to be an exciting new restaurant on his L.2O blog.

banana pandan date

Inspired by a new flavor and technique…

pandan panna cotta
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup half and half
1/2 cup finely chopped pandan leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons powdered gelatin
1 Tablespoon sugar
In a small saucepan, stir together the cream, half and half, and pandan. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Cover tightly, then set aside to steep until cool. When cool, strain through a sieve and return infusion back into the saucepan. Sprinkle the gelatin over the surface and allow to soften for 5 minutes. Whisk in the gelatin, followed by the sugar and place over medium high heat, whisking until mixture is very hot and sugar and gelatin have dissolved. Pour into four 1/3 cup molds and chill until set, 2-4 hours.

date lime molasses
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup diced dates
1/4 cup lime juice
2 Tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon butter
Put water and dates into a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cover saucepan and allow to simmer for 10-15 minutes or until dates are very soft. Puree mixture in a food processor and press through a fine sieve or tamis. Return to saucepan and stir in remaining ingredients. Cook over low heat until mixture reduces and thickens to the consistency of molasses. Let cool.

sugar crusted banana
3 lbs (7 cups) granulated sugar
3 egg whites
4 ripe, peeled bananas
Mix the egg whites into the sugar until well blended. On a baking sheet, form sugar mixture into 4 separate bases, each about 2’" wider and longer than banana, and about 1/2" thick. Place a banana on top of each base and cover with additional sugar mixture to completely enclose. Press firmly to compact sugar, paying close attention to the seam along the base. Bake in a preheated 275 F oven for 1 hour. Remove from oven and set aside to for 15 minutes before opening crust.

to finish
coconut powder (dried coconut cream) found in asian markets or online.
coquitos (baby coconuts) found in hispanic markets or online
Unmold panna cottas by wrapping a hot, wet towel around molds until they release.
Break open the sugar crust by driving the tip of a knife along the edges until it breaks away and banana can be dislodged.
Screen molasses onto plates. Place a chilled panna cotta, sliced warm banana, coconut powder and coquito on each plate.
Serves 4

three for thai

(top) ngo om– Rice Paddy Herb (Limnophilia aromatica)- grown only in rice paddys, this herb which is in the snapdragon family, will not be a good candidate for my garden. Pity…I love its bright lemony cucumber flavor and tiny lavender flowers. Although I have used this herb to punctuate a thai cucumber salad and shrimp spring rolls, I am intrigued by its potential in sweet preparations.

(center) rau ram– Vietnamese Coriander (Polygonumm odoratum) – this herb belongs to the buckwheat family and its flavor is that of cilantro, basil and mint combined. It is commonly used throughout southeast asia, where it is sometimes referred to as "hot mint" because of its peppery bite. It stands up well to rich meats such as beef and pork. I have located seeds which I intend to grow in a confined area as this one is an aggressive invader.

(bottom) bai dtoey- Pandan (Pandanus amaryllifolius)- this leaf from the screwpine family possesses the distinct aroma of cooked basmati rice. I find the scent exotic and irresistible– deep, toasty and nutty with tones of sweet grass and hay. It is a wildly popular flavoring in Thailand where it is the equivalent of vanilla and used to flavor sweets, rice, and wrapped around chunks of chicken, then fried. These leaves freeze very well (which is the state that I purchased them in) and an interesting (and useful) observation is that they retain their color when cooked and even when exposed to acid.

sugar-crusted

Most of us are familiar with the salt crust method of roasting foods encrusted in a paste of egg whites and salt. When executed properly, the baked crust is cracked open to reveal a tender, moist piece of fish or meat, perfectly roasted. One would think that in this insulated enviroment the food would steam as it does en papillote or in a cocotte, but because the crust is porous and absorbs moisture, it does indeed roast.

What if we were to replace the salt with sugar? Would the sugar caramelize and transfer its aroma into the food which it is cooking? These are questions posed by Pierre Gagnaire and Herve This in their collaboration Art et Science, and the answers are yes.

Immediately, I thought of bananas, which have frustrated me in my attempts to achieve a balance between color and texture when roasting. With this method, although the color is light, there is an aura of caramel. The drawing away of moisture as it cooks leave the bananas firm with a texture that reminds me of roasted chestnuts.

Considering the possibilities sends my mind reeling…pineapple, pears, apricots, root vegetables, squash, onions, scallops, shrimp…to name just a few. And to take it to another level, the sugar can be infused with spices or aromatics.

miracle fruit

feeling bitter?

Miracle fruit (Sideroxylon dulcificum) contain an active glycoprotein molecule that binds to taste buds, causing sour or bitter foods that are consumed 30 minutes to 2 hours after chewing the berries to taste sweet.

Click here for an account of one persons experience.
Or here to order some.
If you live in NYC or SF, click here if you would like to go to a Miracle fruit party.

unBloody Mary

Admittedly, I am not a huge fan of the cocktail. All too often they are overly sweet or sour. A well-balanced cocktail is quite another matter. Case in point: the Violet Fizz at Tailor, NYC. Even as I ordered it I was leery, but curious. No need, it was light, bright, and perfectly balanced.
Bloody Marys seem to belong in another category altogether. It may be due to their texture that they feel more like a fluid meal…something to sate your appetite, rather than pique it.
On a recent shopping trip, I was surprised to find young lovage tucked in among the herbs, something I have never seen in super markets in my area…surely a good sign. I cannot think about lovage without conjuring up a memory of the late Adelma Simmons "The First Lady of Herbs" at a lecture that I attended years ago at Caprilands Herb Farm. She was nearly 70 at the time, yet spoke passionately and extensively about herbal cultivation, lore and uses. She threw out one tidbit that I have carried with me since, but have never implemented: the use of lovage stalks as straws.
So, there I stood, at the market, with a bunch of lovage in my hand, and it spoke to me, and what it said was "Make me a Bloody Mary!"
When herbs speak, one must listen.

unBloody Mary
potato and salt cod cake
lovage and preserved lemon fluid gel

Gelatin Filtration is a technique that Harold McGee wrote about in an article in the New York Times in which gelatin is combined with a flavored liquid, frozen, and allowed to drain. The gelatin forms a net which traps fat and particles as it thaws, resulting in a clear liquid with pure flavor. This method can be applied to stocks, sauces, or purees and provides an alternative to a Superbag or the egg white raft method which, arguably, draws flavor from the liquid which it clarifies. It is groundbreaking in its simplicity, requires no specialized equipment or ingredients and provides infinite possibilities. The only drawback is that it needs to be planned ahead–its always been a 3 day process for me. You can read more about this and other progressive techniques at the highly innovative Ideas in Food.

Applying gelatin filtration to a Bloody Mary base of seasoned vegetable juice produced a light colored, crystal clear liquid that tasted identical to the base. To give a visual and textural reference back to the original cocktail, I added a sphere made from the base. In order to suspend it, I blended some Xanthan into the clarified liquid.

Spherification is another technique developed at elBulli in 2003 in which sodium alginate is mixed with a liquid base and dropped into a bath of calcium chloride. The alginate reacts with the calcium, forming an orb with a gelatinized membrane surrounding a liquid center, similar to a raw egg yolk. There is also Reverse Spherification, in which a base is combined with calcium in the form of calcium gluconolactate and dropped into an alginate bath. Spherification is now considered passe by some, although I continue to see it come out of cutting edge kitchens, I think largely because it offers a playful delivery of flavor. This process is explained in depth on the Texturas site (elBulli product line) and demonstrated by Martin at Khymos in this videoclip.

unBloody Mary
base
2 lbs. ripe tomatoes                                        lemon juice, to taste
3 stalks celery                                                 jalapeno hot sauce, to taste
1/2 cup lovage leaves                                        salt and pepper
2 scallions                                                       dash Worcestershire

Pass vegetables and herbs through a juicer or liquify in a blender with 1/2 cup of water. Add remaining ingredients, adjust seasoning to taste. Strain through a sieve. Measure out 4 cups of base and transfer to a saucepan, setting the rest aside in a covered container in the refrigerator and reserve for spheres. To the saucepan add 2 tsps. powdered gelatin by sprinkling it over the surface. Let stand for 5 minutes, then whisk it in over medium high heat until base just begins to simmer and gelatin has completely melted. Remove from heat, let cool and transfer to a bowl and place in freezer overnight or until frozen solid. The next day, line a colander with cheesecloth, pop out the frozen base and place it in the prepared colander, set over a large bowl and transfer to the refrigerator to drain for 24 to 48 hours. When it appears that the base has fully drained, remove colander and discard the solids. When ready to serve, add 1 part vodka to 2 parts of clarified base.

spheres                                                             bath
2 grams sodium alginate                                  2.5 grams calcium chloride
60 grams water                                              500 grams water
140 grams reserved base

spheres– place the water and base in a container with high sides. Sprinkle on the sodium alginate and blend in with an immersion blender. (This can also be done in a high speed mixer). Set aside in the refrigerator for 2-4 hours to allow the bubbles formed during blending to dissipate.
bath– combine calcium chloride with water in a bowl and stir until dissolved.
to form spheres– with a rounded spoon, scoop up some alginated base and slowly submerge into bath, tipping spoon to allow sphere to release. When skin has formed, lift sphere out of bath with perforated spoon and transfer to a clear water bath. Use immediately as sphere will continue to react and harden.
Note: because the finished cocktail has little viscosity, the spheres will sink to the bottom of the glass. If you wish to suspend them, blend 1 gram of Xanthan into 500 grams of finished cocktail.