playing with ricotta

Some days, I go to the playground, looking for fun, but find that it is deserted. I can see my good friends, Ideas and Inspiration, lurking in the shadows; just out of reach. As much as I coax and cajole them, they refuse to come out to play.
Then there are days, like today, when they are already there waiting.

This morning, while enjoying my breakfast of ricotta, fruit, and coffee, I was struck by the how the flavor of ricotta mingled with the coffee. I began to wonder if it was possible to unite these flavors before they hit the palate.
Ideas told me that this might be achieved by marinating the ricotta in coffee. Obediently, I brewed a fresh cup and stirred in some ricotta. A few hours later, I was dismayed to find that there was only a faint flavor of the coffee in the ricotta.
I was about to give up hope, when Inspiration suggested that because the ricotta was now a few days old, it had already ‘set’ and was not open to absorbing any more liquid, but that a fresh batch would still be porous. It seemed plausible, and because it is quick and easy, I made more ricotta.
While the fresh batch drained for the requisite 5 minutes, I brewed a fresh cup of coffee and stirred in the still- warm ricotta. This time, after only 20 minutes, the ricotta had taken on a rich brown color and tasted distinctly of coffee.
Before the ricotta cooled, I tried other flavors:

coffee caramel raspberry

Moving to the savory side, I had on hand some gelatin-filtered tomato sauce that I had infused with basil and garlic.
This tasted just like pizza!

I was having a great time playing with my friends (they get so wound up), but I had other things to do (like work). They did, however, convince me to try one more thing with ricotta before abandoning it for the day: ricotta caramel.
I cooked some sugar with a bit of water until it turned dark amber, then stirred in some well-drained ricotta. I had expected it to turn out hard and brittle, but instead it was soft and chewy, interspersed with flecks of curd. Interesting texture…more play for another day.

the ritual of ricotta

There are many rituals that revolve around food. Cooking, in and of itself, can be viewed as a ritual; a purposeful act performed in the same way, at the same time, on a daily basis.
Some recipes become so familiar that they can be executed through the memory of muscles and senses.
That is how I make ricotta.

It never occurred to me that ricotta could be made at home until I tasted a freshly-made batch of newborn curds, still warm and quivering. There was no turning back…I had to learn its’ secret.
As it turned out, it is really very simple.

ricotta

   1 gallon whole milk (preferably raw
      milk)
   1 quart buttermilk

   A thermometer is useful, but not
   necessary, as there are visual
   cues that will let you know when
   to proceed.

Pour the milk and buttermilk into a Dutch oven or stockpot with a heavy bottom. Place over medium-high heat. As the milk heats up, curds will begin to form along the bottom of the pot. It is important that they are not allowed to stick and burn. To prevent this,
gently scrape along the bottom of the pot with a heatproof rubber spatula. Do this slowly and gently, so as not to disturb the formation of curds, every few minutes. When the milk reaches 140-150 degrees F. you will begin to see very small and soft curds form, but the milk will still be white and opaque. When it reaches 160-170 degrees F, the curds will be fully formed and the milk will become whey; a translucent, yellowish liquid. The minute that you see this transformation take place, remove the pot from the heat and add 2 ice cubes. Stir the curds and whey gently and slowly a few more times, then let it sit, undisturbed for 10 minutes. Line a colander with a double layer of cheesecloth and set it over a pot or bowl into which the whey can freely drain. Ladle the curds into the colander. Let it drain for 5 minutes. If you wish to salt the ricotta, you can do so now by sprinkling up to 2 teaspoons of kosher or sea salt over the curds, and gently folding it in. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate. The ricotta is best when freshly made, but it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

When you see how easy it is to make ricotta, you may want to take it a step further and make a fresh cheese, similar to farmer’s cheese, queso blanco, and paneer. Here’s how:

Heat the milk with the buttermilk as for ricotta, but continue to cook after the curds separate from the whey for another 3-5 minutes, or until it reaches 185-190 degrees F. Remove from heat and proceed with the draining and salting as directed above. Scoop curds into ring molds or a container that is perforated on the bottom to allow drainage. Fill the molds so that the curds mound up over the top. Cover with a plate and heavy weight. Transfer to refrigerator and allow the cheese to compress overnight before using.

raw milk

About once a month, I make a trip to Stone Wall Dairy in Cornwall Bridge. The drive takes me along some of Connecticut’s most scenic roads; it winds through pristine lakeside communities, pastoral countryside, and quaint colonial villages.
The scenery changes dramatically with the seasons. In autumn, the roads are clogged with "leaf peepers" in rental cars, and the landscape is licked with the colors of flame. In winter, after a snowfall, the scenes appear to be painted by Currier and Ives in monotones of black, white, and gray. In spring and summer, the countryside becomes profuse with life; crops bask in the sun-baked fields, herds of cattle loll in bucolic pastures.
It is easy to lose oneself in time among these scenes. This is a landscape void of Walmarts and strip malls, where villagers shop in General Stores and cheerful attendants pump gas and wipe windshields while chatting about the weather.

Stone Wall Dairy embodies the simplicity of its’ idyllic setting; the salesroom is located in a red and white painted barn, in which the door is always open, and a wooden courtesy box serves as a cash register. Their product, raw milk, comes from Jersey cows that they have chosen to raise without the use of antibiotics or synthetic hormones, and is unpasteurized.
Raw milk is a living food rich in health-promoting enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and beneficial bacteria. Pasteurization sterilizes milk by exposing it to high heat, and destroys or diminishes much of what makes milk a healthy addition to our diet. Raw milk will sour naturally, while pasteurized milk will rot.
Despite the transparent benefits of raw milk, it is not without controversy. Proponents of pasteurization have used fear tactics to achieve consumer acceptance. Extensive evidence and records show that raw milk from healthy cows has a high safety record and that pasteurized milk does not, having caused thousands of bacterial diseases and many fatalities.
Pasteurization laws favor large, industrialized milk producers, and squeeze out the small dairy farmers. By giving farmers the right to sell unprocessed milk, they are able to make a decent living, even with small herds. Currently, the sale of raw milk is legal in 28 out of the 50 US states. I am grateful that Connecticut is among these. If you are interested in the current laws regarding your state, you can view them here.

methylcellulose primer

Methylcellulose has been part of the chemical arsenal of avant guard chefs for years.
I have only been experimenting with it for a few weeks now, but have already found many significant uses for it. As a hydrocolloid, it can thicken liquids to form gels that can glue together vegetables, or spread thinly on silicone to form sheets that are flexible and plastic-like when dried, but turn crisp and brittle when baked. It can also be piped into hot liquid to form instant noodles. The gel, when whipped, behaves like egg whites and can be baked into souffles, marshmallows, and light and crisp meringues.

In the blogosphere, Ideas in Food have used various types of Methocel to make hot ice cream, whipped yogurt , hot mozzarella sheets, and gnocchi. Chadzilla has some recent posts in which he’s made whipped lemonade and tempura batter.

Since my s’mores post, I have received a number of email inquiries about working with Methylcellulose. While I am certainly no expert, I thought that I would share some research that I have found helpful to my understanding of this versatile gum.

Methylcellulose,or MC, is a chemical derivative of cellulose. Cellulose is the ‘bones’, or structural cells of all living plants.

Methocel and Benecel are trademarked brand names of MC.

uses
MC is widely used in the food, drug and cosmetic industries. If you have ever taken a coated tablet, or a capsule, you have ingested MC. It is often added to baked goods, beverages, ice creams, and whipped toppings. It is what forms the onion in the Burger King onion ring

category
MC is categorized as a food gum because it is a non-starch carbohydrate polymer. MC behaves like starch in the way that it thickens and stabilizes, but does so using much smaller amounts.

dietary
Because it does not ferment in the digestive tract, as does starch, it is non-caloric. MC is known to be non-allergenic, kosher, halal, and vegan.

applications
Methylcellulose has varied applications: it can coat, thicken, stabilize, gel, suspend, bind, form flexible or brittle films, carry flavors, reduce syneresis (weeping), and improve texture.
Within these applications, it delivers versatility: it is soluble in cold liquids (though it can be introduced in hot liquids and agitated when cool), its viscosity is stable over a wide PH range of 2-13, it is non-ionic, has a high tolerance for salt and sugar, and it can be combined with alcohol or oil. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless.

thermoreversible
MC is unique among hydrocolloids in that it forms a reversible thermal gel; it has the ability to gel when heated and revert back to its original state when cooled.

types
There are several types of Methylcellulose: A, E, F, and K, and even more variations within each type. A types are Methylcellulose, or MC, while E, F, and K types are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or HPMC. They differ in viscosity, gelation temperature, and gelation strength:

Nominal Gelation Gelation
Type Viscosity* Temperature Strength

A15       12-18                   122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A4C       300-560                122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A15C    1,125-2,450          122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A4M       2,700-5,600          122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
E15       12-18                   136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E50       40-60                   136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E4M       2,700-5,040          136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E10M    7,500-14,000       136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
F50       40-60                   143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
F450       360-540                143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
F4M C    2,700-5,040          143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
K100LV 80-120                   158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K99 C    80-120                   158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K15M    13,500-25,200       158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K35M    26,250-49,000       158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K4M       2,700-5,040          158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K100M    75,000-140,000    158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K200M    150,000-280,000 158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft

*viscosity is measured in millipascal-seconds (mPa.s) in a 2% solution at 20 degrees C. (68F)

solubility
A types are soluble at 32-41 F (0-5 C) for 20-40 minutes. E, F, and K types are soluble at 68-77 F (20-25 C). Viscosity will continue to increase as temperature drops.

s’more

chocolate-filled methocel marshmallow
aerated chocolate
graham cream
graham crumbs

methocel marshmallow

230 g water
90 g sugar
4.5 g methylcellulose
1/2 tsp vanilla
confectioners sugar

Bring water and sugar to a boil. Let cool. Add methylcellulose and vanilla. Blend with immersion blender. Cover and chill for 2 hours or until thickened. Transfer to a mixing bowl and beat at high speed until fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Spread out on a silpat or mold and bake at 300F for 5-8 minutes or until set. Unmold or cut into desired shape. Sprinkle with confectioners sugar and apply a blowtorch or place under broiler until browned. Serve hot.

aerated chocolate

Heston Blumenthal has been described as a mad food scientist. If this is true, then his madness is borne of an exquisitely focused curiosity of food.
In his books "In Search of Perfection" and "Further Adventures in Search of Perfection", Blumenthal turns this curiosity to classic dishes that evoke fond memories and nostalgia. They are last meal dishes. He dissects them and goes to extraordinary lengths to execute each component according to his standards of perfection, which are high indeed.
There is much to be learned from these books; simple and practical lessons on how to properly roast a chicken, knead bread, fry potatoes. He almost had me convinced that he is not mad. Then he goes and vacuums chocolate with a Dyson.

special equipment:
whipped cream dispenser
3 N2O charges for dispenser
a vacuum sealer such as foodsaver with its large canister*
a plastic container that will fit inside the large canister

set up:
fill a small saucepan with 2" of water and bring to a simmer
place whipped cream dispenser in a bowl of warm water
place plastic container in large canister and surround with ice
attach hose from vacuum sealer to lid of large canister

step 1 (melt chocolate)

place 18 oz (500g) of good quality chocolate that has been chopped into small chunks into a metal or glass bowl. Add 1/3 cup (65g) peanut oil. Set bowl over simmering water in saucepan. Stir occasionally until completely melted and smooth.

step 2 (foaming)
pour the melted chocolate into the warmed whipped cream dispenser. Screw on the top and charge with 3 N2O charges. Shake vigorously and discharge into the bottom of the plastic container, stopping when the chocolate foam is halfway up the container. Immediately place dish on ice in large canister.

step 3 (aerating)

place lid securely on canister. Begin vacuum. When the chocolate has doubled in bulk, stop the vacuum. Remove the hose attachment and carefully transfer the canister to the refrigerator to chill.

step 4 (chilling)

let canister chill in refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Remove and release pressure from canister. Remove plastic container from inside canister and unmold aerated chocolate by running a thin knife along the sides. If the chocolate does not release, wrap a towel that has been soaked in hot water around the outside of container.

* in ISoP, Blumenthal uses a plastic storage container to hold the foamed chocolate,then places it into a plastic baggie and inserts the nozzle of a Dyson vacuum into the opening.

shortcake strawberry

By the time that March rolls in, winter begins to feel like a guest who has overstayed its welcome. There are days when it murmurs its promise of imminent departure, then turns a cold shoulder and digs in deeper.
The anticipation unsettles me.
I cope with this polarity by alternately sowing seeds and baking, The sowing fills me with hope for what is to come, while baking provides comfort during this last vestige of winter.

In unabashed defiance of this in-between season, I’ve made strawberry shortcake.
It started out in a traditional form…you know the one…shortcake biscuit, split in half, filled with macerated sliced strawberries, billows of whipped sweet cream.
It was delicious, but there were leftovers.
And I started thinking about the crumbs on the outside of a Good Humor strawberry shortcake (it’s the best part).
And you know how I like to play…

shortcake strawberry
shortcake
3/4 cups flour
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 Tblsps unsalted butter, cut into small bits
1/4 cup heavy cream
cream
1 cup heavy cream, well chilled
2 Tblsps cool water
1 tsp powdered gelatin
1 Tblsp confectioners sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups reserved coarse shortcake crumbs
glaze
1 cup strawberry puree
1 tsp powdered gelatin
sugar and/or lemon juice to taste
crumbs
1/2 cup reserved fine shortcake crumbs
1/2 cup crumbled freeze dried strawberries, kept in an airtight container until needed
1/4 cup toasted,unsweetened dessicated coconut

shortcake: Preheat oven to 375 F. Line a small baking sheet with parchment or a silpat. Place the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer. Add the butter bits and blend in thoroughly on med-low speed using the paddle attachment. Add the cream and mix just until the dough comes together in a mass. Transfer dough to the prepared baking sheet and form into a rough rectangle that is 3/4" thick. Cut the rectangle in half to form 2 squares and separate them, leaving about 1" space in between them. Bake for 20 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Remove from oven and turn oven down to 150F. Allow shortcakes to cool completely. Crumble the cooled shortcakes with your hands into pieces about the size of peas. Measure out 1 1/2 cups of coarse crumbs and reserve. Further crumble the remaining coarse crumbs into pieces about the size of rice. Measure out 1/2 cup of these fine crumbs and spread them out on the baking sheet. Return to oven for about 8-10 minutes or until they are dry and crisp, but have not browned. Reserve.
cream: Place the heavy cream in the bowl of an electric mixer and place in refrigerator to chill. In a small bowl, place the water and sprinkle on the gelatin. Allow to soften for 3 minutes. Whisk and place in the microwave at 5- second intervals until gelatin is dissolved and clear. Whisk well and set aside. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator and whip with whisk attachment on high speed until cream stands at soft peaks. Sprinkle the powdered sugar and vanilla over the cream and beat just until incorporated. Pour the dissolved gelatin in the center of the cream all at once and immediately beat until it holds stiff peaks. Immediately fold in coarse shortcake crumbs. Set aside in refrigerator to chill for about 15 minutes or until set. Remove from refrigerator and form into large quenelles, using 2 tablespoons, with one rounded end and one pointed. Transfer the quenelles onto a plate lined with plastic wrap. Transfer to the freezer and let set just until outside is firm, but not frozen through, about 10-15 minutes.
glaze: While cream mixture is in the freezer, place the strawberry puree in a bowl. Taste it–if the berries were ripe it should be sweet and well balanced. If not, adjust to your taste. Remove about 2 Tablespoons of puree to a smaller bowl. Sprinkle on the gelatin and let soften for 3 minutes. Whisk and place in the microwave at 5-second intervals until gelatin is dissolved and clear. Whisk again, then pour into remaining puree and whisk well. Transfer this mixture into a tall narrow vessel in which you can completely submerge the quenelles. Remove the quenelles from the freezer. Impale the sharp end of a skewer into the rounded end of a quenelle. Lift off the plate and submerge into the puree until quenelle is well coated. Lift out and replace on plate. Repeat with remaining quenelles. Transfer to refrigerator to set puree.
crumbs: Combine fine shortcake crumbs, freeze dried strawberries, and coconut just before using as the strawberries will become soft within 5-10 minutes after combining.

optimism

"Let us love winter, for it is the spring of genius"— Pietro Aretino

gu A c A moL e

chef #1: dude, Baldor just dropped off a case of avocados…they’re peaking…wanna make a soup or something for a special tonite?

chef #2: …how about some guacamole?

chef #1: dude, that’s lame

chef #2: yeah… but not if we deconstruct it…

chef #1: ?

chef #2: see, there’s this philosopher dude, Derrida, who deconstructed text by examining and reforming words, syntax and language to personally connect with the context rather than the author.

chef #1: ????

chef #2: Then architects ran with that and applied it as theory by reorganizing the spatial and structural elements of a building, making it less familiar in order to create new relationships between these elements.

chef #1: ?????????

chef #2: So…we can apply this to guacamole by taking the flavors that are familiar and presenting them in a way that is unfamiliar, to force us to think about their relationship.

chef #1: F**k that, just make soup.

manna

Last week, I met up with an old friend, a baker that I had worked with and had not seen for some time. She offered me this book; an unexpected and extravagant gift. Secretly, I coveted it, but propriety dictated that i decline. In the end, she had convinced me (it didn’t take much) that she had extracted what she needed from the book and that she would be honoring it by passing it on. Great books have a way of inspiring this kind of reverence.

My currently pared-down collection of cookbooks now number in the hundreds. With real estate on my bookshelf being at a premium, I now selectively add books based on whether the approach, organization and content is compelling. This book weighs heavily in all 3 areas.

The thing that is truly remarkable about this book is that it was published 10 years ago, in 1998, yet everything about it feels fresh and current. A testament to this appears on page 231, which shows how to make a liquid-filled chocolate cylinder, the very same technique used by Alex Stupak on Iron Chef a few weeks ago.