chicken beef steak

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I am a carnivore. I make no apologies, I eat meat proudly.

There was a period of time that I could not eat meat. A few months into my first pregnancy, the act of  walking into a grocery store turned me into a hound, complete with a vast network of keen olfactory nerves, all of them finely tuned to one scent; that of blood. Where a hound would have salivated, it turned me wretched from nausea. It was months before I could walk into a store unscathed.

When my appetite for meat returned, it was with a vengeance. I craved bloody rare steak with such ardor that it sent me on a quest for the perfect cut of beef to grill or sear. My search ended when I discovered flat iron steak; a remarkable cut of meat whose tenderness is rivaled only by tenderloin, yet possesses the full-on beefy flavor of sirloin. I ate so much steak at that time that I was sure that my next craving would have been for grass.

Instead, I began reveling in the pleasures of a perfectly roasted chicken: crispy skin, juicy meat, and the liquid gold in the form of chicken caramel that sticks to the bottom of the pan.

There were times when the cravings for chicken and steak were simultaneous and urgent. In those instances, I could only wish that they could be fused together.

Sometimes, wishes do come true.

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                     chicken breast and flat iron steak
                     beech mushrooms
                     ciopollini onion
                     potato and toasted almond sand
                     miso chicken caramel
                     spring onion sprouts

Cravings aside, chicken and beef that is Maillard cooked form a synergism where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. They share many flavor compounds and are both full of umami. When combined, individual umami compounds have a magnifying effect on each other and can increase flavor eightfold. Add to that equation potatoes, onions, and mushrooms, all rich in umami, and you can see why these are classic pairings that have stood the test of time.

McDonalds certainly understands the synergism of potatoes and beef. They have built an empire on their french fries which until 1990 were fried in a mixture of about 7% cottonseed oil and 93% beef tallow. They eventually switched to pure vegetable oil after insurmountable criticism about the amount of cholesterol in their fries. But they weren’t about to give up their money maker–now, they add "natural beef flavor" to their oil.

For this dish, fried potatoes are a given, but I’ve presented them in the form of a sand. Micro cubes of potatoes are double fried–the first time at a 275 degrees F. to cook them through and form a skin, then they are cooled and re-fried at 375 degrees F. until golden and crisp. The addition of crushed, toasted almonds accentuates the texture and flavor.

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powder, dust, soil, and sand

What draws me to hydrocolloids is their ability to effectively alter texture while maintaining flavor. The textures that they can produce range from thickened liquids and gels to dry crisps and meringues. Within this spectrum, there lies a texture that is dry on the plate, yet soft and melting on the palate; it is a powder.Tapmalto_008
Tapioca Maltodextrin(TM) is a modified food starch derived from the starchy roots of cassava. It can gel in cold solution, but is most noted for its ability to stabilize fatty compounds, a relationship which can be exploited to produce powders. When combined with an approximate 2:1 ratio by weight of TM to fat, the TM will absorb the fat and lock in its flavor. When the powder that is formed comes in contact with the warm, moist environment of the tongue, it will melt and release the flavor.
If this sounds too good to be true, it’s perhaps because it can be–at least in some instances. I’ve found that with some fats, the TM leaves a stickiness that clings to the teeth and interrupts the experience, while others melt away cleaner. I’m not certain if this variation is due to excess moisture in the fat, ratios, or if it is an inherent quality of TM, but it warrants further exploration.
The variety of fats that can be used to flavor powders are only limited by the imagination. Flavored oils, buTapmalto_003_2tters (including peanut butter and nutella), chocolate, and rendered animal fats are all fair game. High-fat dairy products can also be used, providing that they don’t possess a high moisture content.
The blending of the two ingredients is almost effortless. For small quantities, it can be as simple as tossing the TM and fat in a bowl with a fork, or pulsing in a food processor for larger amounts. Both methods benefit from a final pass through a sieve to lighten the mixture and break up clumps.
For a crisper, sandy texture, a more balanced ratio of TM to fat is used to produce a paste that can be spread on silpat, dried in a low oven or dehydrator, then grated. A similar product can be made from whiPowder_013pped, dried methylcellulose, although in this case, the flavor comes from a non-fat base.
The melting factor of powders produced from TM and fat may be unique, but there are other, low-tech ways to achieve textural components such as dust, soil, and sand:
Dusts are very fine versions of powders and are traditionally used as ingredients or flavoring agents, but
when treated as a separate component, they can act as a dry sauce. Virtually anything that can be successfully dried and pulverized can serve as dust: vegetables, herbs, citrus zest, dairy products, meat, seafood, nuts, sauces…the list goes on. In some cases, you can find these products, already processed, on store shelves: dried milk,Powder_032 dried buttermilk, dried yogurt, ground shrimp, coconut powder, chili powder, etc. The real fun comes in blending these flavors to create more complex, flavored dusts. Wylie Dufresne uses this concept to produce "pizza pebbles" with dusts  of tomato, garlic, parmesan, and bread,  then binds them together with olive oil.
Soil and sand share the same consistency, but differ in texture; soil being softer and moister than sand. These can be made from many of the already mentioned ingredients with the addition of baked goods such as: flavored breads, cakes, cookies, pastry and crackers.

fluid gel

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beet fluid gel
Cara Cara orange powder

A fluid gel lies somewhere between a gel, a puree, and a sauce. In fact, it is all three of these things.
It is made by combining a flavored base with a shear-thinning (the ability to break down to a fluid state by vigorous agitation, as in a blender, and remain fluid) hydrocolloid such as agar agar or gellan, and allowing it to solidify. The solid gel is then sheared in a blender into a creamy, fluid state, and remains that way. Using agar also allows it to be reheated up to 185F/ 85C before it remelts.
A good example of a fluid gel and shear-thinning is ketchup. Ever wonder how a few good shakes will loosen it up and allow it to flow from the bottle? Well, now you know. You’re welcome.
The greatest advantage of this technique is that it allows us to take a thin, highly flavored liquid such as beet juice, and lend it body and viscosity without the use of flavor-diluting starches.
In the end, isn’t it really about the flavor?

fluid gel
1 cup (185 g) liquid flavor base
1/2 tsp (2 g) agar
1/8 tsp (.35 g) xanthan
Blend agar and xanthan into base. Place in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Allow to cool until solidified. Place solid gel in a blender and blend until creamy.

bbq pulled pork

Uncle Willie’s is a small restaurant in Waterbury, Connecticut that features "real down home pit bbq". It is an unassuming place, located in a strip mall and the decor is nondescript. The food is the real draw there and has garnered it many accolades; among them, Jane and Michael Stern’s proclamation "one of America’s top ten barbecue restaurants". Those are some big shoes to fill for a bbq joint in the Northeast, but Uncle Willie’s not only fills them, but runs triathlons. In addition to their bbq, which is cooked for 12-18 hours over oak and hickory, they offer award-winning fried chicken and volcanic wings. I go there for the "like velvet" pulled pork–deeply flavored, sensual, complex with the mysteries of smoke–it is the stuff that elevates pork to mythical heights.

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pulled pork
ancho pomegranate bbq sheet
fried coleslaw
trumpet mushroom fries

The pulled pork that I make at home does not even try to compete with Uncle Willie’s, but it is satisfying nonetheless. I rub pork shoulder with a blend of dried herbs and spices and cook it long and slow in the oven. While it is still warm, it lends itself to compression, as I’ve done here. When tightly wrapped in plastic, the unctuous juices and fat will bind the shreds into a compact shape, which then releases with the pull of a fork.

The sauce is made from a butterscotch and vinegar base, to which I added pomegranate molasses and ground ancho chilies that were reconstituted in OJ. The balance of flavors hit the right notes: caramelized sweetness up front, fruit and acid roll over the tongue, grand finale of heat and spice kick in at the back. I had intended to turn this into a fluid gel, so I added agar, but then decided to present it as a sheet. The agar allows it to be heated.

The fried coleslaw brought in the elements of my favorite way to enjoy pulled pork at Uncle Willie’s–the Carolina pork on a bun. Can you guess what makes it work?
I’ll be glad to dish if anyone can answer this riddle:

What can you add to something to make it lighter in weight and lesser in mass?

hint: it was added to a component of this dish.

asparagus scallop black sesame

Asparagus has always been my herald to spring. Once they poke their pointed heads out from the still earth, they signal to the rhubarb and fraises de bois that it is safe to come out.
At the restaurant, part of my morning routine is to blanch asparagus. Standing at the stove, going through the ballet of blanching– dropping handfuls of loose spears into a pot of briny, violently boiling water, scooping them out at the critical moment, and quickly plunging them into a bowl of icy water to halt the cooking process and set the color and texture–it is tempting to try to fit in other tasks, but asparagus demands your full attention. Variables such as soil mineral content, growing medium, fertilization, and harvest stage will all effect cell density within each box, each bundle, and even each stalk, requiring careful monitoring in the cooking stage, as it can quickly cross the line from al dente to baby food.
This is basic cooking; a menial task in the scope of the days’ preparations, but a crucial technique to master.

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ginger honey glazed scallops
blanched asparagus whips
black sesame ice cream

Food photography lesson #1: This was my first attempt at photographing a dish that is intended to be served with widely contrasting temperatures. It took 3 rounds of reassembling this dish before getting a shot that did not look like a poster for "What Not To Eat". In a moment of brilliant clarity, it occurred to me that there was no reason that, for the sake of photography, the components could not all be at the same temperature. Sometimes, it is the glaringly obvious things that press my stupid button.

disclosure

I am a freelance chef.  What that means, at least in how it applies to me, is that I prepare a variety of foods for a variety of clients, at various locations. It keeps things interesting and forces me to be adaptable.

Many of my clients lead lives that allow, and in some cases, require them to travel a great deal. Some call Connecticut their home, others have primary residences in large cities and refer to their Connecticut manse as "the country house". They often call me upon arrival, hungry and jet-lagged, because I understand what they need; fresh, simple food that will restore their weary bodies. I go into their homes to prepare their dinner, and stock the refrigerator with meals for the following days. When they have settled in, they call again, this time it is to request menus for entertaining. This is where I shine, and they know it, and hand over the carte blanche.

One of my clients is a restaurant. I established a solid, working relationship with the owner a few years ago, when he began to hire me as an on-site chef for his catering operation. I understood his clients, they had the same needs as mine. When I first got on board, he had just lost his chef and was single-handedly cooking for the restaurant and filling the catering orders. Most days, when I arrived to pick up my order before going out to  location, I would find him fixing a toilet, or dealing with customers, while my orders waited to be filled. I consistently offered to come in earlier to help, but he was smack-dab in the midst of a chest-thumping, "I-am-superman-and I-can-do-everything" mid-life crisis. I had to respect him for that…he was doing it all. Gradually, he came to his senses. Now, there is a new chef running the kitchen, one that I had worked with and recommended for the position, and on most weekends you can find me working at his side. I arrive in the morning to prepare the foods that I will be serving that evening. The time that I put in at the restaurant pays only a fraction of what I make on location. I do it because it keeps me connected to a larger food scene than the one that I find in private homes. I do it because this relationship with a restaurant, an owner, and a chef…it works for me…and that is something new.

Before freelancing, I worked full time in a restaurant that had an identity crisis; it couldn’t decide what it wanted to be. It must have rubbed off on me…I soon found myself in the same crisis. For the first time in my life, I had lost interest in food. I couldn’t find my mojo, and the love and passion was MIA. I was bored (shame on me) and was considering a departure from cooking. I am fortunate to have other options; things to fall back on. I call this my "brown period", because at one point, I realized that every plate that I put out had a gratuitous drizzle of balsamic. It is tragic to witness your imagination and creativity disengage, and allow body muscle to take over, in auto-pilot mode, with senseless actions.

It was at this time that I read an article about a chef in Spain that was creating ripples in the food world with his science-driven approach to food. I have to admit, my gut reaction was not good…I aligned it to the evils of genetic modification, and why was he putting chemicals back in our food? But there was something about it that stirred me, and I found myself reading it over and over, each time peeling away the layers of my predisposition, to reveal it’s true intent, and what I found was revolutionary. I still remember the day that I sat down in front of my computer, and typed his name, Ferran Adria, into an empty box. A rabbit hole opened up under my feet, into which I fell; am falling still. The only other reference that I have to this life-altering effect was the day that I came face-to-face with Les Demoiselles d’Avignon on a class trip to MOMA. Picasso’s  brutal depiction of women rocked me to my core, and held me, transfixed, until my mind bent, and changed forever the way that I define beauty. (What is it about Spain?)

Inspired by a new approach to food, I felt reborn in the kitchen, but I had no outlet. I needed a place to experiment with, document, and share ideas. I needed a playground. That was, and still is the intent of this blog.

When I decided to start blogging, I made a conscious decision to not reveal the names of those that I work for. My reasons form a long and tangled list, but in their complexity, there is simplicity:

Paramount on the list is discretion. In the small, tightly-knit community of high-profile people that I work in , discretion is the unmentioned code that is established with the initial greeting at the door and  sealed, at the end of the evening, with ink on a check. Once lost, it cannot be regained.

Self-preservation is wrapped up in there, too. I have worked long and hard to establish a relationship of trust with my clients and the restaurant. I would not want what happened to Shuna, to happen to me. I read her blog, as do many others, because it is a window into the collective soul of a chef, and an acutely raw account of what it means to be a woman chef working in the exhilarating, sometimes hostile environment of a restaurant. I rejoice in her triumphs, share in her passions, rail at the injustices, and when she slits open a vein and bleeds all over my monitor, I feel it like a stigmata. I know what it is to give all, then be shown the door; it is a path that I don’t ever want to walk again.

When I dream about giving birth to live snakes, as I have done lately, I recognize that it is also about fear; the fear of losing control and creating monsters. As a mother, I understand the importance of choosing my battles; knowing what lines to draw, what to give up to the universe.

As for my name, it is Linda. That is my given name, the rest I took from my husband, who prefers to keep it private. Even if I were to disclose it, and you were to Google it, believe me, you would find nothing of interest. There would be no Michelin stars, or illustrious resume, just people who are not me.

corned beef tongue

If I were not such a procrastinator, this is what I could’ve served for dinner last Monday night:
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corned beef tongue
sous vide homegrown assorted carrots
potato-stuffed brussels sprouts
braised leeks
colcannon puree
whole-grain mustard crisps
pickled mustard seeds
malt reduction

corned beef tongue
2-3 beef tongues
2 qts cold water
12 oz kosher salt
4 oz brown sugar
1/4 oz sodium nitrate (optional, but will give the tongue its pink color)
3 bay leaves
2 cloves garlic
2 tsps black peppercorns
2 tsps mustard seeds
1 tsp whole allspice berries
1 tsp dried thyme

corning: Lay tongues in a single layer in a non-reactive container. Bring water, salt, sugar and sodium nitrate to boil in a stainless steel saucepan. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Pour brine over tongues, it should cover them by a few inches. Add remaining ingredients and place a heavy plate on top of tongues to keep them submerged. Cover and place in the refrigerator for 6-8 days. Remove tongues from brine. Discard brine and wash container. Return tongues to container, cover with fresh, cold water and allow to soak overnight in the refrigerator to remove excess salt.
cooking: Remove tongues from water and place them in a large pot. Add 1 large onion, 2 carrots, 2 stalks of celery and enough cold water to cover the tongues by a few inches. Simmer tongues for 3-4 hours or until very tender. (The tongues can also be cooked in a pressure cooker for 1 hour.)  Remove the skin while still warm. Wrap tongues tightly in plastic wrap and chill overnight. Slice thinly to serve.