miso

I was making miso when I heard the news about Japan. Sendai miso. I stopped to watch the footage on the same TV screen that, at any given moment, on numerous other channels, I could watch other horrific scenes played out. But this was real. It was happening. Days later, it's still hard to grasp the destruction… the devastation… the loss… the redesign of geography… the bending of time. And as the crisis escalates from a natural disaster to one made by man, I remain in awe of the grace and dignity of the people of Japan.

prepared miso, ready for fermentation
The label indicates the date of production and date of "first sample".
I expect it to take at least a year until it will be ready for use.

Miso is surprisingly easy to make. The hardest parts are: waiting six months to over a year for the fermentation process to complete, and procuring the koji. Although shoyu, miso and sake combined make up 2 percent of the GNP of Japan, there are only about six companies that produce koji, making it difficult to buy in small quantities. I purchased mine from naturalimport.com, but even they are currently out of stock. If you are an adventurous do-it-yourself'er, you can make koji by inoculating rice with tane-koji (Aspergillus oryzae spores), available from GEM cultures.

There are many types of miso, ranging from sweet white (shiro miso), light yellow (shinshu miso), sweet red (edo miso), to barley miso (mugi miso). They vary by ratios of soybeans:koji:salt and in length of fermentation. Sometimes, as is the case with mugi miso, barley (instead of rice) is inoculated with the tane-koji. I chose to make red (sendai miso) because it is what I use most in my kitchen.

red miso (sendai miso)
makes 1.5 litres (just over 6 cups)

PREPARING TO MAKE MISO:
     • To avoid contamination, sterilize everything that will come in contact with the miso.
     • Choose a cylindrical earthenware or glass vessel whose diameter is less than its height. The miso should fill the vessel by at least 80%.
     • Choose a lid to fit snugly inside the vessel. It should be rigid and flat and can be of any material, but porous or reactive material should be well wrapped and sealed with several layers of plastic wrap. 

PREPARING SOYBEANS:
1.  Rinse 397g/14oz dried organic soybeans under cool running water, then place them into a pressure cooker*. Add 1L/1qt spring water. Cook on high pressure for 40 minutes, then allow pressure to release naturally. Beans should be soft enough to crush easily. (*If pressure cooker is unavailable, soak beans in water for 8-10 hours, then bring to a boil with 2L/2qts spring water. Reduce heat and cook beans at a simmer for 4-5 hours, or until tender.)
2.  Pour hot, cooked beans through a strainer, reserving the liquid. Allow to drain for 10 minutes.
3.  For a rough, rustic texture, mash beans with a fork or a potato masher. For smooth texture, puree in food processor. Transfer beans to a non-reactive bowl.

PREPARING MISO:
4.  Measure 454g/16oz of the reserved bean cooking liquid. Add 163g/5.75oz kosher salt. Stir.
5.  Add mixture to mashed beans. Stir until well blended.
6.  Check the temperature of the bean mixture. It should be no higher than 37.78C/100F. Set aside to cool, if necessary, then add 340g/12oz koji. Stir until well blended. 

PREPARING MISO FOR FERMENTATION:
7.  With clean hands, moisten the inside of vessel by dabbing the walls and bottom with wet fingertips. Sprinkle 3g/½tsp kosher salt inside vessel and distribute evenly with fingertips.
8.  Pack prepared miso tightly into vessel, stopping between layers to press and release trapped air pockets. Smooth top of miso and sprinkle 6g/1tsp kosher salt evenly over surface.
9.  Cover miso with a piece of plastic wrap, pressing onto surface and draping over rim of vessel. Secure plastic wrap to top of vessel with a rubber band or string, leaving a little slack to allow for compression.
10. Fit lid inside rim of vessel. Press firmly. Place a 1-1.5kilo/2-3lb weight on top of lid. Affix label to vessel with the date of preparation and the estimated date of completion.

FERMENTATION:
For natural fermentation (1-3 years)— Choose a clean, cool (not over 21C/70F), dry location that is well ventilated and not in direct sunlight, such as a garage, barn, or cellar. Elevate vessel so that it is not sitting on floor. Do not disturb miso for at least the first six months, except to monitor the level of tamari (liquid) that rises to the top. After one month, if there is no tamari, increase the weight on the vessel. If there is more than 1/2", decrease the weight. After six months, The tamari can be tasted for aroma and flavor, keeping in mind that it will be saltier than the finished miso. Surface mold is not harmful and can be scraped off, in which case the surface should be re-salted and covered with a clean piece of plastic. Continue to sample every three months until the flavor is mature and satisfactory. If at anytime the miso tastes or smells overly acidic, sour, or alcoholic, it should be discarded.

Miso can be fermented in under 6 months by storing in a carefully controlled environment between 21C/70F and 32C/90F, a process that is too detailed to cover here. For further information and inspiration on how to make and use miso, refer to the comprehensive "The Book of Miso", by William Shurtleff and Akiko Aoyagi.