There's something about the austerity of conifers that captures the Japanese aesthetic.
Or maybe that's just me.
Balsam fir (Abies balsamea) grows widely throughout the northeastern United States and Canada. Other trees that exhibit balsam aroma are Balsam poplar (Populus sect. Tacamahaca), Balsam of Mecca (Commiphora opobalsamum)- native to Southern Arabia, and Peru Balsam (Myroxylon)- native to South America, though only the Abies is a conifer.
The connection might be rooted in my fascination with bonsai and how an artfully sculpted tree can freeze time in a miniature landscape. (And I think that I might have told you about miniatures and me)
Or it could be that they remind me that I once wished that I could travel the world on a ferry. Such was the pleasure of gliding through the Strait of Georgia in the Pacific Northwest on a drizzly day, watching the mist rise up around the Gulf Islands, shrouding the jagged black silhouettes of ancient pines with the Zen atmosphere of a sumi-e landscape.
Or maybe it's that I recently read "Snow Falling on Cedars" and it evoked the poetry of that place.
I contemplated all these thoughts as I sat by the window this morning, drinking tea and watching the snow swirl over the pines in my backyard. They all loomed and murmured, but the salient voice was the matcha that spoke softly but urgently of balsam.
matcha balsam flan
480g soy milk
50g balsam needles
12g matcha
5g agave nectar
pinch salt
4 egg yolks
Heat soy milk until it just comes to a simmer. Add balsam, cover and infuse for 1 hour (or use a chamber vacuum for instant infusion). Whisk in matcha, agave nectar, and salt.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks while drizzling in the infused soy milk. Pour into ramekins. Bake in a loosely covered bain marie in a preheated 325 F. oven for 15-20 minutes or until set.
And, because I know you'll ask…
The raviolo is made from thin slices of Portobello caps that are lightly sauteed and softened in olive oil. The filling is a concentrated mushroom jus seasoned with shoyu and kecap manis, molded in demi spheres and frozen. The frozen filling is encased between two slices of Portobello (using a smaller one for the bottom) and the margins glued together with tapioca maltodextrin, which bonds the oil in the mushroom, forming a sort of gasket around the filling. It can then be tempered at room temperature or gently heated to melt the filling.
matcha balsam flan
mushroom raviolo
maitake
mushroom floss
yuzu cube
black sesame powder
candied white pine
Balsam fir (Abies balsamea) grows widely throughout the northeastern United States and Canada. Other trees that exhibit balsam aroma are Balsam poplar (Populus sect. Tacamahaca), Balsam of Mecca (Commiphora opobalsamum)- native to Southern Arabia, and Peru Balsam (Myroxylon)- native to South America, though only the Abies is a conifer.
Balsam is a derivative of the word balm and refers to the soothing aroma that makes it an effective scent in aromatherapy and a popular filling for sachets. In ancient times, as well as modern, balsam oil is mixed with olive oil as a chrism and used in the administration of sacraments in the Catholic church.
Incidentally, balsamic vinegar does not refer to the plant source or the aroma, but to the use of vinegar as a healing substance, or balm.
Playing with Fire and Water 
Do you make a slurry with the tapioca maltodextrin or sprinkle it on the mushrooms to form a bond? Does this this work as a glue for other foods?
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‘Snow falling on Cedars’ is a favorite book and it makes me want to cuddle up with a very juniper-y gin and read(I mean eat) your blog…
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Interesting! Tapioca maltodextrin as glue. I have two upcoming dinners to plan for and this is certainly an idea to contemplate/integrate.
Mushroom floss?
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The reason that TM works here is that it absorbs the oil in the mushrooms (from sauteeing) to form a bond. It was applied dry and in a generous, even layer. Apply pressure to help it seal.
mushroom floss is a vegetarian version of rousong–dried and shredded mushrooms–light and crispy.
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Holy crap, that TM trick is awesome. I never knew it could be used for anything other than powders from oil-based products. I’ll definitely be thinking about other ways to apply your concept.
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