oxalis

In the early spring, after months of looking at the frozen earth
through a window, I am grateful for anything green and living that sprouts from the newly thawed ground, especially if it can be brought into the kitchen. Even the weeds capture my attention; mild and tender dandelions that have now turned coarse and savagely bitter, succulent little sprigs of purslane, and the prolific oxalis that I pay tribute to now, but by midsummer will become the bane of my existence.

Oxalis, commonly known as wood sorrel or sour grass, is a genus of over 800 species. It belongs to the family. Oxalidaceae, which includes the fruits bilimbi and carambola. The name comes from the Greek word for sour (oxys), which refers to the Oxalic acid that provides this plant with it's characteristic tart, lemony bite. The entire plant is edible; from the blossoms to the stems and leaves, right down to the tuberous root. In South America and the Andes, the tubers of the species O. Tuberosa are called oca and are consumed like potatoes.

While the consumption of oxalis is historical (sailors used to chew it to prevent scurvy, lending it the name scurvy plant), it is not until recently that it has made it's way into fine dining. I believe this trend can be attributed to modern Scandinavian chefs, particularly chef Rene Redzepi of NOMA in Copenhagen, who features it prominently in his New Nordic Cuisine.

 The good thing about oxalis is that you don't have to go far to find it. It is an aggressive invader with spring-loaded seed pods that have the abilitiy to launch seeds as far as 10 feet away, and will quickly take over any available patch of dirt. Oxalis proliferates all over the US and many other countries, growing in lawns, garden beds, and along roadsides. I've even seen them sprouting up from cracks in sidewalks in NYC and Seattle. This is only good news from a culinary viewpoint…gardeners have a different take on it and view oxalis as a noxious weed. The less invasive varieties are being cultivated as ornamental plants that come in an array of colors and leaf sizes. I've found some striking cultivars at a local nursery that I've planted in the rock garden and intend to keep a close eye on their spreading habits.