playing with ricotta

Some days, I go to the playground, looking for fun, but find that it is deserted. I can see my good friends, Ideas and Inspiration, lurking in the shadows; just out of reach. As much as I coax and cajole them, they refuse to come out to play.
Then there are days, like today, when they are already there waiting.

This morning, while enjoying my breakfast of ricotta, fruit, and coffee, I was struck by the how the flavor of ricotta mingled with the coffee. I began to wonder if it was possible to unite these flavors before they hit the palate.
Ideas told me that this might be achieved by marinating the ricotta in coffee. Obediently, I brewed a fresh cup and stirred in some ricotta. A few hours later, I was dismayed to find that there was only a faint flavor of the coffee in the ricotta.
I was about to give up hope, when Inspiration suggested that because the ricotta was now a few days old, it had already ‘set’ and was not open to absorbing any more liquid, but that a fresh batch would still be porous. It seemed plausible, and because it is quick and easy, I made more ricotta.
While the fresh batch drained for the requisite 5 minutes, I brewed a fresh cup of coffee and stirred in the still- warm ricotta. This time, after only 20 minutes, the ricotta had taken on a rich brown color and tasted distinctly of coffee.
Before the ricotta cooled, I tried other flavors:

coffee caramel raspberry

Moving to the savory side, I had on hand some gelatin-filtered tomato sauce that I had infused with basil and garlic.
This tasted just like pizza!

I was having a great time playing with my friends (they get so wound up), but I had other things to do (like work). They did, however, convince me to try one more thing with ricotta before abandoning it for the day: ricotta caramel.
I cooked some sugar with a bit of water until it turned dark amber, then stirred in some well-drained ricotta. I had expected it to turn out hard and brittle, but instead it was soft and chewy, interspersed with flecks of curd. Interesting texture…more play for another day.

methylcellulose primer

Methylcellulose has been part of the chemical arsenal of avant guard chefs for years.
I have only been experimenting with it for a few weeks now, but have already found many significant uses for it. As a hydrocolloid, it can thicken liquids to form gels that can glue together vegetables, or spread thinly on silicone to form sheets that are flexible and plastic-like when dried, but turn crisp and brittle when baked. It can also be piped into hot liquid to form instant noodles. The gel, when whipped, behaves like egg whites and can be baked into souffles, marshmallows, and light and crisp meringues.

In the blogosphere, Ideas in Food have used various types of Methocel to make hot ice cream, whipped yogurt , hot mozzarella sheets, and gnocchi. Chadzilla has some recent posts in which he’s made whipped lemonade and tempura batter.

Since my s’mores post, I have received a number of email inquiries about working with Methylcellulose. While I am certainly no expert, I thought that I would share some research that I have found helpful to my understanding of this versatile gum.

Methylcellulose,or MC, is a chemical derivative of cellulose. Cellulose is the ‘bones’, or structural cells of all living plants.

Methocel and Benecel are trademarked brand names of MC.

uses
MC is widely used in the food, drug and cosmetic industries. If you have ever taken a coated tablet, or a capsule, you have ingested MC. It is often added to baked goods, beverages, ice creams, and whipped toppings. It is what forms the onion in the Burger King onion ring

category
MC is categorized as a food gum because it is a non-starch carbohydrate polymer. MC behaves like starch in the way that it thickens and stabilizes, but does so using much smaller amounts.

dietary
Because it does not ferment in the digestive tract, as does starch, it is non-caloric. MC is known to be non-allergenic, kosher, halal, and vegan.

applications
Methylcellulose has varied applications: it can coat, thicken, stabilize, gel, suspend, bind, form flexible or brittle films, carry flavors, reduce syneresis (weeping), and improve texture.
Within these applications, it delivers versatility: it is soluble in cold liquids (though it can be introduced in hot liquids and agitated when cool), its viscosity is stable over a wide PH range of 2-13, it is non-ionic, has a high tolerance for salt and sugar, and it can be combined with alcohol or oil. It is colorless, odorless, and tasteless.

thermoreversible
MC is unique among hydrocolloids in that it forms a reversible thermal gel; it has the ability to gel when heated and revert back to its original state when cooled.

types
There are several types of Methylcellulose: A, E, F, and K, and even more variations within each type. A types are Methylcellulose, or MC, while E, F, and K types are hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, or HPMC. They differ in viscosity, gelation temperature, and gelation strength:

Nominal Gelation Gelation
Type Viscosity* Temperature Strength

A15       12-18                   122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A4C       300-560                122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A15C    1,125-2,450          122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
A4M       2,700-5,600          122-131°F (50-55°C)       Very firm
E15       12-18                   136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E50       40-60                   136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E4M       2,700-5,040          136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
E10M    7,500-14,000       136-147°F (58-64°C)       Semi-firm
F50       40-60                   143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
F450       360-540                143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
F4M C    2,700-5,040          143-154°F (62-68°C)       Semi-firm
K100LV 80-120                   158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K99 C    80-120                   158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K15M    13,500-25,200       158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K35M    26,250-49,000       158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K4M       2,700-5,040          158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K100M    75,000-140,000    158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft
K200M    150,000-280,000 158-194°F (70-90°C)       Soft

*viscosity is measured in millipascal-seconds (mPa.s) in a 2% solution at 20 degrees C. (68F)

solubility
A types are soluble at 32-41 F (0-5 C) for 20-40 minutes. E, F, and K types are soluble at 68-77 F (20-25 C). Viscosity will continue to increase as temperature drops.

aerated chocolate

Heston Blumenthal has been described as a mad food scientist. If this is true, then his madness is borne of an exquisitely focused curiosity of food.
In his books "In Search of Perfection" and "Further Adventures in Search of Perfection", Blumenthal turns this curiosity to classic dishes that evoke fond memories and nostalgia. They are last meal dishes. He dissects them and goes to extraordinary lengths to execute each component according to his standards of perfection, which are high indeed.
There is much to be learned from these books; simple and practical lessons on how to properly roast a chicken, knead bread, fry potatoes. He almost had me convinced that he is not mad. Then he goes and vacuums chocolate with a Dyson.

special equipment:
whipped cream dispenser
3 N2O charges for dispenser
a vacuum sealer such as foodsaver with its large canister*
a plastic container that will fit inside the large canister

set up:
fill a small saucepan with 2" of water and bring to a simmer
place whipped cream dispenser in a bowl of warm water
place plastic container in large canister and surround with ice
attach hose from vacuum sealer to lid of large canister

step 1 (melt chocolate)

place 18 oz (500g) of good quality chocolate that has been chopped into small chunks into a metal or glass bowl. Add 1/3 cup (65g) peanut oil. Set bowl over simmering water in saucepan. Stir occasionally until completely melted and smooth.

step 2 (foaming)
pour the melted chocolate into the warmed whipped cream dispenser. Screw on the top and charge with 3 N2O charges. Shake vigorously and discharge into the bottom of the plastic container, stopping when the chocolate foam is halfway up the container. Immediately place dish on ice in large canister.

step 3 (aerating)

place lid securely on canister. Begin vacuum. When the chocolate has doubled in bulk, stop the vacuum. Remove the hose attachment and carefully transfer the canister to the refrigerator to chill.

step 4 (chilling)

let canister chill in refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Remove and release pressure from canister. Remove plastic container from inside canister and unmold aerated chocolate by running a thin knife along the sides. If the chocolate does not release, wrap a towel that has been soaked in hot water around the outside of container.

* in ISoP, Blumenthal uses a plastic storage container to hold the foamed chocolate,then places it into a plastic baggie and inserts the nozzle of a Dyson vacuum into the opening.

honeycomb candy

Science was my weakest subject in school. Although I had not yet decided on an occupation, I knew that it would be in a creative field, to which science would be irrelevent. As it stands, I was wrong. Science and creativity are two sides of the coin that is cooking. Modern cooks understand this.
Despite my lack of interest in hypothesis and theories, the experiments captured my attention. One in particular was the effect of carbon dioxide when combining baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) with an acid. The voluminous foam that billowed out of the beaker and all over the lab table delighted and fascinated me.
I find myself now, many years later, reliving that experience. This time, the results are edible and delicious.

honeycomb
candy
3/4 cup sugar
2 Tbspns water
2 Tbspns honey
1 1/2 tsps
baking
soda

Because the final steps must be executed rapidly, before you start cooking the sugar have ready: a baking sheet that has been well greased or lined with a silpat, a whisk and the premeasured baking soda.
Spread the sugar out in an even layer in the bottom of a large saucepan. Drizzle the water and honey over the sugar and place on a burner over high heat. Cook, without stirring, until it reaches 300F. You will observe the sugar melting, then the syrup forming small, tight bubbles, then the bubbles will become larger and looser and finally, the syrup will begin to take on an amber color. When it reaches 300F., immediately remove it from the heat. Quickly add the baking soda and whisk just until the baking soda is mixed in. In one quick motion, dump the foaming syrup onto the prepared baking sheet. Do not spread or disturb, as this will cause it to deflate. Let it stand until cool to the touch, about 10 minutes. Break or cut into pieces. Transfer immediately to an airtight container to preserve the crispness.

sugar-crusted

Most of us are familiar with the salt crust method of roasting foods encrusted in a paste of egg whites and salt. When executed properly, the baked crust is cracked open to reveal a tender, moist piece of fish or meat, perfectly roasted. One would think that in this insulated enviroment the food would steam as it does en papillote or in a cocotte, but because the crust is porous and absorbs moisture, it does indeed roast.

What if we were to replace the salt with sugar? Would the sugar caramelize and transfer its aroma into the food which it is cooking? These are questions posed by Pierre Gagnaire and Herve This in their collaboration Art et Science, and the answers are yes.

Immediately, I thought of bananas, which have frustrated me in my attempts to achieve a balance between color and texture when roasting. With this method, although the color is light, there is an aura of caramel. The drawing away of moisture as it cooks leave the bananas firm with a texture that reminds me of roasted chestnuts.

Considering the possibilities sends my mind reeling…pineapple, pears, apricots, root vegetables, squash, onions, scallops, shrimp…to name just a few. And to take it to another level, the sugar can be infused with spices or aromatics.

mascarpone and caramelized milk

Mascarpone is a lovely substance…a thick triple-cream cheese that tastes of sweet cream with a tangy finish. It is far too rich to eat more than a spoonful or two straight up, but it is indispensable as an ingredient. A few spoonfuls stirred into a soup, pasta or risotto will elevate it from good to sublime. It makes an amazingly creamy and rich ice cream, tames the sweetness of caramel, and stabilizes whipped cream.

Mascarpone can easily be made at home from heavy cream (pasteurized produces a better product than ultra pasteurized) and tartaric acid (the primary acid found in wine–can be purchased online or at a wine-making supply store). It takes less than 10 minutes to prepare, but it must thicken and drain for 12 hours before it can be used.

Here’s how:

Mascarpone

2 cups heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon tartaric acid

Heat cream in a heavy saucepan to 180 degrees F. over medium-high heat, being careful that it does not scorch. Remove from heat as soon as it comes up to temperature and stir in the tartaric acid. Continue stirring for 1-2 minutes. Transfer to a glass or plastic container and refrigerate for 2 hours. At this point, it should have thickened significantly. Set a sieve over a bowl and line it with a triple thickness of cheesecloth and pour in mascarpone. Let drain for an additional 10 hours in the refrigerator.

Yesterday, I found myself with a fresh supply of mascarpone and a question that I have been pondering: Could mascarpone be caramelized?
I knew that I could stir in some burnt sugar and cook it down a bit , but I didn’t want to swing it that far into the sweet zone. What I wanted was to maintain the balance of sweet and tart, but deepen the flavor; make it more complex. But if I didn’t add sugar…would it still caramelize? Some would argue that the absence of sugar would instead cause the milk solids to toast (as in browned butter), but heavy cream does contain some sugar (16 grams per cup), so I got busy…

I packed mascarpone into a half pint mason jar, leaving an inch of headroom at the top, then sealed it with a lid and band. I then placed it on a folded towel in a pressure cooker and poured in about 3" of water, sealed the cooker and and brought it up to pressure. Worried about the water level, I decided to check it after 30 minutes. (My paranoia about letting the water bath dry out stems from a dulche de leche incident a few years ago involving a can of sweetened, condensed milk in a saucepan and one distraction too many…I’m still cleaning that mess up.) The water level had gone down about an inch, which I replaced, and it was just starting to take on color. I placed it back in the cooker for another 30 minutes. The color had noticeably deepened and it appeared to have retained its creamy texture, so I decided to stop there. As soon as it had cooled, I popped the lid and there it was…the sweet, nutty, toasty aroma and flavor that I was looking for. I now had a product that was familiar in texture and mouth feel, yet more complex and nuanced in flavor to play with.

Heady with success, I wondered what else could Be caramelized. I put every dairy product that I had on hand into mason jars and processed them in the same way. Here’s the results:

hits deepened color, taste and aroma, unaltered texture

whole milk
processed for 90 minutes

heavy cream
processed for 90 minutes

canned evaporated milk
processed for 90 minutes

misses deepened color, taste and aroma, altered texture

lebne
processed for 60 minutes
(formed soft curds that could be whipped until creamy, but remained slightly grainy)

sour cream
processed for 60 minutes
(formed firm curds; texture could not be restored by whipping)

conclusions It appears that the cultured products curdled under the intense heat/prolonged cooking, while the uncultured ones achieved the desired effect. This is just a rudimentary observation…I wish that I knew more about the science at play here. Regardless, I am happy with the 4 new products that I have here. I am especially excited about the versatility of heavy cream and what it can produce: flans, custards, whipped cream and maybe even butter. Back to ~~work~~ play.

UPDATE: Chemistry professor and author Robert L. Wolke writes in his book What Einstein Told His Cook, "the word caramelization should be reserved for the browning of sugar- any kind of sugar- in the absence of protein. When sugars or starches occur together with proteins as they do in onions, breads, and meats, the browning is mostly due to the Maillard reaction, not caramelization."
So. I guess that I should refer to these products as Maillard milk.