soybeans

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The first time that I tried edamame was nearly a decade ago at a Japanese restaurant. My friend, who had been there before urged me to order them, but I declined. I mean… a bowl of beans cooked in salted water? Really? How was I supposed to get excited about that?

Of course, I tried them and of course, I loved them. There was something so fundamentally satisfying about sharing a communal bowl of humble beans, digging them out of their shells with our fingers. and popping them in our mouths. But it was not just about the ritual, it was also about flavor– delicate, buttery, nutty, addictive.
I searched for edamame in markets and health food stores but they just weren't available back then. At least not in my area. So I grew them. And have been growing them since.

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Soybeans are an amazingly versatile food. From them, we can produce oil, butter, milk, yogurt, cereal, flour, cheese and meat analogs. And that's not even mentioning the umami-rich fermented products: soy sauce, miso, tempeh, funky natto, and fermented black beans, or douchi.
Douchi are made by fermenting and salting whole black soybeans. The process results in dry, soft, salty beans with a complex aroma profile similar to chocolate and coffee [which, if you think about it, are fermented beans]. The difference being that while douchi are salted, chocolate and coffee go on to be roasted. 
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When soybeans are in season in my garden, I treat them like corn. Before heading out to the garden, I put on a pot of salted water. By the time that I return, the water is at a rolling boil. The beans cook in their pods for 8 minutes, no more. These I like to eat scalding hot, burning my fingers on the shells, with a small bowl of salt or ground douchi [which, if you think about it, can act like salt]. But I always save some to chill down and nibble on later with a cold beer, much like peanuts  [which, if you think about it, is also a legume].

Funny how things are connected.

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My friend L. is a talented baker. Her impossibly thin Palmiers with fleur de sel started an obsession.
After the first day of working together, she said that it was nice to work with someone normal. I wasn't sure if that was a good thing. She assured me that it was. After Palmiers, she never referred to me as normal again.
Although our styles are different, we bonded through a solidarity of gender and occupation. I thought that we were tight and that she understood my propensity for all things light and crispy, sweet and salty. 
Why, for the love of God, did she introduce me to these?

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If you haven't already tried these, do yourself a favor and avoid them like the plague. They are EVIL.

the winter garden

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Exactly one month ago, I took a walk on a snowy day to pick sage. I was making butternut squash soup for a client and toasting a garnish of tiny cubes of gingerbread brioche in brown butter. I knew the soup would need an herbal note to break the monotony of sweet and spice. I thought of sage; the only thing harvestable in my dormant winter garden.  

Leaving the comfort of my warm kitchen on that cold day, even for a short jaunt, required effort. My psyche needed psyching and my body needed insulating. Motivated by the promise of soup, I went about the ritual of piling on the layers; the whole time longing for those other months and the seamless transition from indoors to outdoors. At times like that, I question the wisdom of living in a climate that robs me of that freedom, but Home is more complicated than weather and geography.

And so, on that snowy cold day in January, I set out to the garden, psyched and insulated. My intention was to make a quick exit and a quicker return, but I am easily distracted.

Snow has a way of slowing down time. Everything is muted and blurred, like going under anesthesia. Even the pain of cold eventually subsides. The act of walking on ten inches of ice-crusted snow feels awkward and surreal; every step calculated. That was the first distraction.

The next was the compost heap, which I neglect as soon as the weather turns cold, letting time and microorganisms do their job. Making compost is a lot like making lasagna–it involves the layering of carbon (dried material) with nitrogen (fresh material), controlling moisture, then letting it cook. And cooking it was; while everything else around it was white and frozen, the heap remained dark and soft. Even in the nose-numbing cold, I could smell warm humus–dark, rich, bittersweet, and mysterious–like the heart of the earth. It stood in stark contrast to the astringent and metallic scent of snow.

Satisfied that the compost was happy, I turned to the stand of behemoth pines that live behind a pair of sheds on my property. Those trees have been the bane of my gardening existence, their imposing height and girth forces the better part of my garden to grow in their shadow. I've considered cutting them all down, but I knew that I would regret the loss of their scented boughs and the void of green in the dead of winter. Having just removed my Christmas tree, I was missing its scent, so I broke off a few boughs to bring indoors. 

I located the sage by their flagging tips that stuck out of the snow. I love the word "sage" and its connotations to age and wisdom. It perfectly fits this plant that is at least twenty years old and has been transplanted numerous times, yet it always adapts and still thrives. I used the broken ends of the pine to break through the ice that surrounded the sage, picked what I needed and headed back to the house.

At this point, you may be wondering why I am telling you about these ordinary events. If anything, they are a map that led me to what happened next:

I raised my hand to my nose to smell the sage, but I could only smell the oil and resin of pine on my gloves.

That's it, that's the climax… I expected to smell an herb, but instead I smelled pine and that simple act set off a synaptic storm that connected the two and made them interchangeable. 

I've played with the flavor of pine and other conifers before, but with some trepidation. Until that moment, I thought of it as a distinct flavor in its own category; neither herb nor vegetable. In the context of an herb, it became approachable– friendly even. This revelation set off a month-long exploration that produced a dozen posts about conifers and extended to other aromatic trees. It took me on a journey through time into the history of salt, cod, beans, and spirits. It allowed me to revisit flavors from my childhood in a new light. It prompted me to delve deeper into the fascinating and complex world of aroma compounds. It introduced me to a delicious new product. It helped me to face the dire situation of seafood and use my power as a consumer and chef to implement change. It was a true inspiration.

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Recently, I've received a number of emails asking about inspiration and how to acquire it, to which I rarely know how to respond. I apologize if my replies are inadequate. I am no authority on this, but I will say that inspiration is not exclusive and does not belong to the realm of the creative elite. Like grains of pollen that float through the atmosphere unnoticed, unless you are sensitive to them, they will not effect you. Sensitizing ourselves is simply being open to the myriad ideas, thoughts, and experiences that we encounter at any given moment and making a connection and expansion to what we already know about ourselves, our interests, and our perceived world. 

I want to leave this exploration of conifers with a dish that is inspired by that significant walk to my garden on that snowy day. I hope that it reflects my connection to the earth and all of the wonderful food and inspiration that it provides– even while dormant in the dead of winter.

winter branches


Winterbranches
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I've revisited Albert Adria's technique of modeling chocolate in ice water. I think it's simply brilliant in it's ability to produce delicate and organic 3D shapes without molds.
For these miniature twigs, the white chocolate was flavored with birch syrup. Preserved wintergreen berries and tiny shards of pine glass were affixed to the branches.
I love the idea of presenting a bouquet of these branches as a mignardise. Their refreshing flavor would be a fitting end to a special meal.

Wintergreen 
Wintergreen (Gaultheria), also known as teaberry, is an evergreen creeper native to norteastern North America. The leaves and red berries are a rich source of methyl salicylate, or oil of wintergreen. The flavor is popular in chewing gum, particularly Clarke's Teaberry gum.
The fresh berries are somewhat dry and mealy in texture and shrivel quickly. Preserving them in a glycerin and water solution keeps them plump and improves their texture. After 2 weeks in a solution stored in the refrigerator, the berries still look and taste fresh. An added perk is that they infuse the solution with wintergreen flavor, which could then be used as a flavorant.
Warning: Methyl salicylate is an analgesic found in aspirin and many over-the-counter liniments and ointments. Pure methyl salicylate can be lethal in doses of 4-6 grams. Oil of wintergreen is 98-99% methyl salicylate and gaultheria leaves and berries contain up to 0.05%. A lethal dose of berries is about 800-1000 grams. Although gaultheria has a long tradition among indigenous Canadians and North Americans as food and beverage, use common sense when ingesting. Young children and pregnant women should avoid eating gaultheria.  
 

birch wintergreen black currant banana

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wintergreen, black currant, and banana nougat with birch syrup glass

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I finally received my package of birch syrup. It was a long wait as it had to come from Alaska. You would think that with all of the birch trees in the northeast, that someone around here would be producing it. If they are, they're keeping it for themselves…I can't blame them.
Like maple syrup, Birch syrup is made by concentrating and evaporating tree sap into a syrup. But that's where the similarity ends. It takes 100 gallons of birch sap to make 1 gallon of syrup. With maple syrup, its about 40:1. Birch syrup is less sweet than maple and is predominantly low-glycemic fructose as opposed to maple, which is mainly sucrose.
Birch syrup has a deep, spicy, woody flavor that is tinged with methyl salicylate.

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Methyl salicylate is an ester commonly known as oil of wintergreen or betula oil. Esters are a class of aromatic organic compounds that are widely found in nature and are usually described as "fruity".  Esters follow a general formula (alcohol + carboxylic acid = ester), therefore (methyl alcohol + salicylic acid = methyl salicylate). Names of esters always end in -ate.
Methyl salicylate is found in high concentrations in the berries and leaves of wintergreen (Gaultheria) and birch (Betula)and in lesser degrees in black currants, cherries, tomatoes, licorice root, fig leaf, pansies and dianthus. It is the prominent flavor of root beer and birch beer.
The primary ester in banana is isoamyl acetate, but bananas also share other esters with black currants: ethyl caproate and ethyl benzoate, which is described as fruity, sweet, wintergreen.

cedar apple streusel

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cedar-baked apple pudding
toasted flour and poncillo streusel
apple confit
cherry tobacco gel
cedar brandy ice cream
maple leather
Cedar apple
 

Cedar is a prized aromatic wood that is widely used to line closets and storage chests. Toasting cedar breaks down the sugars in the wood and produces a complex aroma that is decidedly masculine. 
With this dish, I've attempted to capture that aroma with the nuances of apples, tobacco, cherry, leather, brandy and molasses.  

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Baked apples are the quintessential comfort food. Here, I've gone hobo pack with them, tucking in a few sheets of toasted cedar, butter, nutmeg, vanilla, maple syrup and brandy. Their flavor is exquisite. 

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Wood is the most primitive fuel used for cooking, yet no matter how high-tech our appliances and techniques become, there is nothing that can replicate the flavor of food cooked over a wood fire or in a wood-burning oven.IMG_9532

Wood also does wonderful things to wine and spirits. During the Roman Empire, winemakers discovered that storing wine in wooden barrels had a profound effect on flavor, color and texture. Further down the timeline, it was noted that oak had the best compatibility with wine and that toasting or charring the inside of oak barrels added favorable characteristics. Today, we know that heating the oak causes the simple sugars (hemicellulose) to break down. These wood sugars transform the body of the wine, softens tannins, enhances flavor with toasty and caramelized organoleptics, and deepens the color of spirits.
Because of the resins in cedar, it has been found to produce off-flavors in wine and it is used almost exclusively in the production of sake. It's curious that brandy is often described as having the aroma of cedar– when it has been aged in oak– and that the aroma of toasted cedar is reminiscent of brandy. These two were destined to be together. 
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I'm always on the lookout for unique service pieces. These searches sometimes turn up items that could be put to use for purposes that they were not intended for. For instance, this votive holder captured my imagination when viewed as a cup with a hollow bottom–a fun place to hide an unexpected surprise. 

Upon lifting the cup to sip cedar-infused brandy, a wisp of cedar smoke is released and the experience is heightened and amplified. 
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Or, for an added treat: a cedar-infused brandy bonbon with a cedar ice cream center
Cedar brandy

white chocolate eucalyptus watermelon olive

Eucalyptus is not a conifer. It is an angiosperm (enclosed seeds|pod) and not a gymnosperm (naked seeds|cone). In many other aspects it closely resembles a conifer, most of all in it's fragrant wood and leaves. 
The aroma of eucalyptus is largely comprised of the monoterpene eucalyptol (about 70%, depending on the variety), also known as cineol, which gives it the characteristic fresh, spicy and camphoric scent that is shared by rosemary, sage and bay leaves. 

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I like the way that the fattiness of white chocolate rounds out some of the medicinal qualities of eucalyptus. They both have a cooling effect on the palate, and together they combine into a refreshing flavor.
I also like what agar and gelatin do to ganache. In the right amounts, they provide a toothsome delivery with a creamy mouthfeel and a clean finish. It also allows for doing fun things to ganache, like cutting it into cubes.
Watermelon also has a cooling effect with a green-ish flavor. The problem with pairing watermelon with traditional ganache is textural–when the ganache melts, it coats the tongue, making the wet, crisp watermelon feel odd and doesn't allow the flavor to come through. Altering the texture of the ganache gets around that. Briefly infusing the watermelon with lime juice adds acidity and terpenes that enhance the eucalyptus.
Fresh turmeric is a rhizome in the ginger family with a startling orange color. It also contains eucalytol along with other terpenes that contribute to its earthy and mildly floral aroma.
Black olive croquant is a flavor and texture counterpoint.
Eucalyptus is the only plant on my list of conifers that doesn't live in my yard. Without access to organically-grown eucalyptus, I've been leery of cooking with florist-grade because of the use of pesticides in these products.  I picked up a sapling of an apple-scented variety (Eucalyptus bridgesiana) at a garden center last summer and have been nurturing it under flourescent lights. I used the first harvest to make this ganache. 
In looking at the first photo, I realize that the scale of the dish is ambiguous. Scale is important–the size of a portion is directly related to our enjoyment of it. This dish is intended as an amuse– one or two bites of an intriguing combination that arouses the palate for what is to come. If that were to be more of the same, I'm afraid that the effect would be lost.
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Eucalyptus is a genus of evergreen trees and shrubs that is comprised of about 700 species. It belongs to the family Myrtaceae, whose members include cloves, guava, and allspice. It is a native of Australia, where it is also known as blue gum because of its tendency to leak sap from breaks in the bark. They are not cold hardy but are widely cultivated in the tropics and subtropics. The largest consumers of eucalyptus are koalas.

mushroom matcha balsam yuzu

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There's something about the austerity of conifers that captures the Japanese aesthetic. 

Or maybe that's just me.

The connection might be rooted in my fascination with bonsai and how an artfully sculpted tree can freeze time in a miniature landscape. (And I think that I might have told you about miniatures and me)

Or it could be that they remind me that I once wished that I could travel the world on a ferry. Such was the pleasure of gliding through the Strait of Georgia in the Pacific Northwest on a drizzly day, watching the mist rise up around the Gulf Islands, shrouding the jagged black silhouettes of ancient pines with the Zen atmosphere of a sumi-e landscape.

Or maybe it's that I recently read "Snow Falling on Cedars" and it evoked the poetry of that place.

I contemplated all these thoughts as I sat by the window this morning, drinking tea and watching the snow swirl over the pines in my backyard. They all loomed and murmured, but the salient voice was the matcha that spoke softly but urgently of balsam.

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matcha balsam flan
480g soy milk
50g balsam needles
12g matcha
5g agave nectar
pinch salt
4 egg yolks
Heat soy milk until it just comes to a simmer. Add balsam, cover and infuse for 1 hour (or use a chamber vacuum for instant infusion). Whisk in matcha, agave nectar, and salt.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks while drizzling in the infused soy milk. Pour into ramekins. Bake in a loosely covered bain marie in a preheated 325 F. oven for 15-20 minutes or until set.
And, because I know you'll ask…
The raviolo is made from thin slices of Portobello caps that are lightly sauteed and softened in olive oil. The filling is a concentrated mushroom jus seasoned with shoyu and kecap manis, molded in demi spheres and frozen. The frozen filling is encased between two slices of Portobello (using a smaller one for the bottom) and the margins glued together with tapioca maltodextrin, which bonds the oil in the mushroom, forming a sort of gasket around the filling. It can then be tempered at room temperature or gently heated to melt the filling.
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matcha balsam flan
mushroom raviolo
maitake
mushroom floss
yuzu cube
black sesame powder
candied white pine
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Balsam fir
(Abies balsamea) grows widely throughout the northeastern United States and Canada. Other trees that exhibit balsam aroma are Balsam poplar (Populus sect. Tacamahaca), Balsam of Mecca (Commiphora opobalsamum)- native to Southern Arabia, and Peru Balsam (Myroxylon)- native to South America, though only the Abies is a conifer.
Balsam is a derivative of the word balm and refers to the soothing aroma that makes it an effective scent in aromatherapy and a popular filling for sachets. In ancient times, as well as modern, balsam oil is mixed with olive oil as a chrism and used in the administration of sacraments in the Catholic church.
Incidentally, balsamic vinegar does not refer to the plant source or the aroma, but to the use of vinegar as a healing substance, or balm.