Epoisses is a washed rind cheese from the village of Epoisses in Burgundy, France. The characteristically slimy orange rind develops in the maturing stage as the ripening wheels of cheese are washed in a progressively concentrated solution of Marc de Bourgogne. When ripe and served at an ambient temperature, the pale paste, or pate, is almost liquid with an elastic resilience.
Epoisses has the distinction of being ranked among the world's most odiferous cheeses; 'rank' being an apropos term. It's fragrance, which can be described as "a loaded diaper that has smoldered in the sun for a few days", has caused it to be banned on public transportation in France. The flavor of epoisses is surprisingly mild in comparison to it's odor; a sublime contrast of delicate, milky sweetness, winey complexity, a salty, metallic sting, and funky fermentation. You will either embrace it or run screaming.
In France, epoisses is traditionally made from unpasteurized cow's milk. The US doesn't allow imported cheese from unpasteurized milk unless it has been aged over 60 days, resulting in a mature cheese that lacks the fruitiness of a youthful one. The most commonly available epoisses in the US is the Berthaut brand (pictured above), made from pasteurized milk. It is reputed to lack the nuances of a true epoisses. I'll have to wait until a trip to France before I can attest to that, but for now, I'm quite content in stinky-cheese heaven.
Playing with Fire and Water 
I live down the road from Epoisses. Berthaut is by far the biggest producer in Epoisses. They make several classes of Epoisses, usually only one of which is exported. The Epoisses produced by smaller producers is often sharper and nuttier in flavour I find. This is not to say that it is better or worse, just different. I do occassionally find Berthaut a little simple and cloying in its creaminess. This sensation is often considered pleasing by others though.
The main thing you’re missing out on, the further away from Epoisses (or any cheese region for that matter) you are, is the freshness of the cheese. Any transportation of the cheese takes it out of its ideal environment. Transportation overseas or even to Paris for that matter involves addition of preservatives and storage in closed containers. In such environments, the volatile compounds in the cheese reduce, resulting in the same aromas we associate with rotting vegetables. This is not the aroma the locals associate with Epoisses.
Incidentally, the cheese is used extensively in cooking in the region, particularly around Semur-en-Auxois, the largest town near by. The most common uses are: as an addition for a cream sauce to be had with steak or endive, as an addition to andouillette before being steamed (the resulting aroma is not for everyone) or mixed with potato and cured pork as a kind of local tartiflette.
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Of course, you could always make a side-trip to Canada (specifically Montréal) as we do have access to raw-milk époisses.
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Cheeses don’t like “transportation”. I think we must only eat cheeses from the region where we live, hopefully I live in Burgundy… but I know there are good cheeses all over the world!
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I’ve recently discovered this cheese and it has quickly become one of my favorites. I too found it amazing how delicate and subdued the flavor could be for such a funky smelling cheese. Your beautiful photo does the texture of a nicely ripened Epoisse justice.
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If you can’t use a whole Epoisses, Berthaut also makes a cheese called Trou De Crou which is like a miniature version, about 2 or 3 ounces in a plastic cup. I don’t know if it has all of the subtleties of the larger cheese, but I think it is quite delicious and creamy, and certainly brings the funk. Whole Foods has it sometimes.
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