fir-infused trout
crispy quinoa crust
fir oil
tangerine
black olive dust
If you've ever belonged to the Scouts of America, or have been camping, then you surely know what a hobo pack is. Maybe you don't. Or you need to be reminded.
A hobo pack is a self-contained meal where a square of foil serves as both pan and plate.
When my boys were young and had polar tastes in food, both of which conflicted with my husband's and mine–hobo packs saved my sanity. With very little effort, I could assemble fresh and nutritious meals that were customized to our individual tastes without destroying my kitchen. In the dog days of summer, vegetables and herbs went directly from the garden (with a brief pause under the faucet) to awaiting packs by the grill–no kitchen involved. In the winter, the packets were cooked on glowing embers in the fireplace and eaten on plates while sitting on the floor in front of the fire. These meals always felt effortless.
But if it was just convenience that I was after, there were other alternatives. What appealed to me about hobo packs was the cloche environment that allowed for infusing flavor. Here, there was plenty of room for play. Virtually any ingredient(s) that performs well in a steamy, hot environment is a candidate for this method, with herbs, spices, liquids and/or fats added for flavor.
What distinguishes this method from other forms of vapor cooking is that it is performed on a very hot heat source, which introduces the element of caramelization in the bottom layers that permeates the rest of the contents. One adjunct to this is that when using dried woody herbs as a bed, they will burn and impart a smoky flavor.
That smokiness was what I was going for when placing rainbow trout (a good choice for sustainability) on a bed of dried fraser fir needles. The result is a stunning sweet, resinous aroma that infiltrates the fish. If terroir, or 'a sense of place' can be captured in a dish, this one certainly does, conjuring up memories of sitting around a campfire in a fragrant forest, with a well-stocked lake nearby. In this context, food really does taste better when kissed by the great outdoors.
A thick layer of fresh fir needles are arranged on a square of heavy-duty foil. A deboned filet of trout is rubbed with olive oil and seasoned with salt and pepper. Thin slices of tangerine are arranged over top. The foil is tightly sealed around fish, leaving some airspace for heat circulation. The packet is placed on a red-hot cast iron skillet (it's ready when drops of water immediately evaporate) and cooked for 3 minutes, then removed and allowed to steam for 5 minutes before opening.
Fraser fir (Abies fraseri) is the quintessential American Christmas tree, known for its fragrance and ability to retain its soft needles for weeks after cutting. It has one of the strongest terpene scents among conifers.
To make fir oil, blend fresh needles in a high speed blender with olive oil. Strain and store in an opaque container in the refrigerator.
Playing with Fire and Water 
Crispy quinoa crust looks yummy, and the pairing sounds great. One question: when plating, how did you get the tangerine and fir oils not to run together? How do you spray them like that?
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how did you achieve the quinoa crust ? The fir was not overwhelming in taste? what could substitute that?
This dish is so simple and yet so profoundly inspired at the same time… Absolutely outstanding application……
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The “spray” was achieved by a decorative painting technique known as
splattering where a stiff brush is dipped into paint and the thumbnail is
flicked over the brush and directed at the subject. To make the fir oil and
tangerine juice work, they had to be thickened: the oil with glycerine and
the juice with Ultratex.
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The crust is achieved by combining a methocel solution with sous-vide
quinoa, seasoned with tangerine zest. The methocel binds the quinoa and
allows it to be crisped in butter. Because trout is mild in flavor, it is
traditionally paired with assertive terpenes (thyme, sage, lemon). Toasting
the fir in this method made it sweet and mellow and became a peripheral
flavor.
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